We drove directly to Schaffhausen (hereafter Schaff) and bunked down in the Best Western Barnhof Hotel, directly across from RR station. We parked on sidewalk until we unloaded suitcases. A common practice in Europe it seems. Best Western (BW hereafter) reservations told me that parking was nearby. I had to return to Hotel twice and they finally sent a guide with me to find the Garage one mile away by car and a 20 minute walk back under the RR station. No fear of your car being stolen as no one could find the garage.

The Hotel was pretty good. It was clean, old, rooms large and very basic, and the staff was helpful and spoke English. There is no heat unless management determines it is cold enough to turn it on centrally. We asked how to get heat and the maid arrived with 2 blankets. Nice but blankets got wet in the shower.

Our goal in Schaff was to see the Rhinefalls. I had been to them in ’45 but wanted to see them again and show them to Lorraine (henceforth LG). Getting to cruise boat is a long walk but if you have a handicap tag you can drive down the road that has a sign; “No cars allowed”. Of course if LG is in the car you will hear a screaming “You can’t go here”. At the end was a souvenir shop (what else?) which was my clue to drive down the forbidden road. In addition to our car there were – none. Everyone was walking down the hill, some pushing wheelchairs. Boat loading is only 200’ from the parking lot.

The boat ride was a great experience. The pilot takes the bow of the boat within a few feet of the powerful cascading water and cuts the engine. The force of the water pushes the Jon (flat) boat to the left and then he pulls forward to the Island that lies between two down flows of water. There is a small dock and he unloaded LG so she could climb the steep stairs to the top. LG made the climb and later told me I could not have made it as it was tedious and the stairs were slippery. Any fall would take one into the falls on either side and that would be disastrous. [Hear about the woman who backed into an airplane propeller? Disaster.]

I stayed in the boat with the pilot and we went across the river to pick up a tour he had dropped off earlier. You can also walk down to the falls and stand on platforms that protrude far enough into the water that you get wet. [Brochure enclosed] I can recommend the thrilling boat ride. It is worth the 6.5 Francs.

We drove to Stein Am Rhine, a quaint village (shopping mall) and I learned how to put francs in a machine to get a ticket that tells you the time you must leave the parking lot. I donated my unused time to a man taking my parking spot. Cars line up waiting for someone to leave and give them a space. Parking and water are scarce in Europe. (Except for Urach.)

Stein is attractive but the thrill for me was an impromptu performance of about 20 to 30 men who gathered in the square to sing. Two of the young men were yodelers and I spent at least ½ hour recording them on my camcorder. Now my only chore is to try to understand the camcorder manual to get them out of the camera. [video and music came out great on camcorder disc]

There must have been an occasion for revelry [Later found it was a 100 year anniversary] as another group replaced them as they left. This is my joy in coming to Europe. I enjoy the surprises of street performers, and folklore, and not expecting entertainment as it appears. This group made my trip all worthwhile; and I’m not easily pleased. The village is worth a visit. It lies on the Rhine and takes one back in time.

We looked for a Hotel but only two were on the Rhine and one had no lift and the other had gone out of business. So after a 2 hour visit we returned through the beautiful country side through many unscheduled roads [unscheduled roads equals LOST] to Schaff and our Hotel.

A sumptuous breakfast at BW and then a short walk on pedestrian shopping street [no vehicles allowed at certain hours] to take photos and movies before stores opened and crowds gathered. Nice statues in the square. This was after a noisy night as our room was over an alley with shops and the noise started about noon and lasted until the stores closed at 6:30 - then the bars opened and remained open until 2 AM when the cleaning crews for the Hotel arrived and the man and woman must have been hard of hearing for they screeched at one another until 4 AM when the Breakfast cooking staff arrived and pots and pans joined the chorus. Then a semi-quiet night as stores close at 4PM on Saturdays.

Sunday the streets were deserted and it looked like a ghost town. We had another sumptuous breakfast. (That is what the brochure says) It was.. We left Hotel about 8:30 AM and were told Freiburg was about 1 hour distant. Arrived Titisee about 20 miles shy of Freiburg at 1 PM - A one hour drive in about 4½ hours, but back roads (not planned) were very scenic.

From Schaff to Urach by way of several unscheduled roads to Titisee. (I’m embarrassed each time I say it.). We found a great lodging; Hotel Brugger am See, close to the center of town with a girl manager [At my age any woman under 30 is now a girl] whose family came from Urach where our travel club was having our 3 day get-together. (The purpose of our trip to Europe)

Hotel Brugger am See
Strandbadstraße 14
79822 Titisee-Neustadt
Tel - 7651/8010 ~ Fax - 7651/8238
Email - info@hotel-brugger.de
Singles - Doubles - Apartments
Indoor pool - Sauna - Wellness center
Balcony overlooking lake
Private lake beach

Titisee is a tourist oriented village with many hotels. It is on a beautiful lake and you can rent small boats to spend a day doing the water bit. There are also tour boat cruises that circle the lake. And, naturally there were many souvenir shops so LG was in her glory. LG lives to shop. [2 suitcases and 2 shipped boxes (that I saw)] No trip is a success unless you arrive home exhausted from carrying suitcases and awaiting the arrival of essential items that you forgot you bought. [and worrying they were lost]

We bought some rolls and meat to make sandwiches the next day on our way to Urach. We found it wise to carry food as we were lost so much of the time.

The hotel restaurant was excellent. I had roulade and Black forest cake. If you have not had black forest cake you have missed the greatest desert ever. The young girl was a sweetheart and was curious as to why we were going to Urach, as she said most people do not know it exists. I think we thereon received special attention. Thank you Urach!

Our room had a nice balcony overlooking the lake; very Bavarian or Swiss architecture. The room was large, clean, and comfortable, had a small refrig, I would highly recommend it although there are other lodgings closer to the center of town and on the lake.

We left Titisee (I feel so dirty saying it) with directions to Urach only 45 minutes away. Two & ½ hours later we found Urach. Directions were to turn left at the restaurant which left much to be desired. Then to find our apartment in Neukirch would have been easier if we could find Neukirch. We would drive 30 or 40 KM [KM to miles multiply by 6 and count off one place to left for decimal. 5 KM = 3 miles] before we realized we were going in the wrong direction. The sun would be on our left when it was supposed to be on our right. Either the sun was wrong, or we were. We were! After passing the same buildings 3 or 4 times we would stop and ask for directions - (again).. I was contemplating finding different lodgings because we were lost so much of the time that I thought the apartment was hundreds of miles from Urach. But we did see much of the countryside as we passed through many small villages. When we finally found the apartment it was only 6 miles from Urach. Finally we found “Hotel apartment Erika Rombach” and settled in.

Max und Erika Rombach
Sonnentauweg 6
78120 Furtwangen-Neukirch
Tel & Fax - 7723/1347
Email - erika.rombach@holiday-apartment.de
Three room apartment with bath and kitchen, Sat TV
Sun terrace - BBQ grill - Washing machine

The apartment was the ground floor of Erika and Max’s house. We were made welcome from the time they met us in the driveway. There was a parking space only a few feet from the door reserved for us. The apartment has 2 bedrooms, a kitchen, a spacious bath, a TV and DVD, and a laundry room that made LG delighted [Hear about the dog that coughed up the flashlight? He was delighted.] since she washes clothes every night. It also had a dryer. (double delighted) Our car looks like a mobile laundry during the drying process. I have to fight to keep my clothes on when it comes time to wash evenings. When LG wants to wash you may wake up in the morning to find the sheets on the bed are missing and in the washing machine.

We had keys to the apartment so felt secure when we had to leave.

Erika gave me directions to the gas station only 5 KM away -- 24KM later we found a shell station. Each time I stopped and asked for directions (at least 7 times) I was told it was 5KM down the road. I began to wonder if anyone counted above 5. I was convinced you had to have a full tank of gas to find a gas station. Later I found I should have turned left vs right (or visa versa, I still don’t know) and the super market and gas is only 5 KM distant. It took us 2 hours to find the station and then find our way back to the apt (lost in both directions). Of course there was the 20 minute wait while a road crew dug up the road.

Back at the apartment we had a call from Carolyn [Stammtisch member] via Erika, that we were to meet at the Gasthaus zum Sternen, where we are to have three nights of gatherings. They had opened up especially for our group to serve us dinner and beverages [meaning beer for most].

This was my and LG's first meeting of some of the Stammtisch members. In attendance were Ben, Len, Carolyn and Jim, Greg and Erika, Sam, Jim (Tooooobah), Gary, LG and yours truly, along with the proprietors Rudi, Tina, Marina, and Grandma. Grandma is close to 80 (a youngster).

Due to rain forecast no plans were made for the group except to meet again at the Sternen at 7PM the following day. Our plans were to get to a bank as our Euro were dwindling due to so many places not accepting credit cards. Euro go fast with the current exchange rates. Because we had the kitchen we stocked up on beer, bread, beer, milk, beer, coffee, beer, fruit, and cheese. Cold cuts, tea and butter, crackers, and beer.

Arose to predicted rain only with plans to find a bank, and based on previous experiences I estimated we could find one 5 KM away within 3 hours.

We had a great 3 evenings with our friends in the Stammtisch. Chuck and Beverly surprised us with their arrival as they had said they would not be there. Nate also arrived without any reservations and co-incidentally found a Zimmer directly across from where we were staying. (I marvel at those who, without concern, just arrive and find a room) Also arriving a day later were Maryann and Bill along with Don and Sally, so our friends multiplied and our noise level and fun increased proportionately. We all seemed to depart in different directions. I was a little disappointed that the Stammtish members were not as big drinkers as emails would suggest. In my younger years I could have drunk them all under the table.

Next morning we scrapped ice off the car windows. The wiper on rear window had stopped. We drove to a bakery a few blocks from the apartment and returned to the room to have coffee, hot buns, tea and milk to use up foods we had purchased. By 8:30AM we were on our way with a loving send off from Erika and Max and their taking our picture.

The directions were good to get to A81 Autobahn but the execution was horrible. When we finally got to A81 North we did OK until Stuttgart and a fork in the road put us on 813 versus A81 which took us through the center of Stuttgart. This is something I would strongly discourage. For an hour we drove thru the center and I came to the conclusion that they do not like me there. All were blowing their horns just because I changed lanes and did a few U turns. I should really put my handicap sign in the rear window (where the windshield wiper has started again). If they don’t print the car manual in English, it is not my problem. Each time I try to shut off the rear wiper the front window washes and front wiper starts – again.

Anywho, our 2 hour drive to Rothenburg took 4½ hours. I am improving. We found Gasthaus Zum Breiterle without too much trouble just inside the Rödertor gate of Rothenburg. (Surprise. Surprise) They were waiting for us and guided me from my sidewalk parking to the parking lot directly across the street.

Gasthaus "Zum Breiterle"
Familie Hocher
Rödergasse 30
91541 Rothenburg o.d.T.
Tel - 9861/6730
Fax - 9861/86235
Email - info@breiterle.de s
Located next to the Rödertor

The Gasthaus is run by Mike and his wife and two small children who are from Australia. Mike does everything. He is host, porter and chef. He may own the Gasthaus as he does all to make you comfortable with zest. He shows you to your room, carries suitcases, does the buying and inventory, and all of the cooking and the meals are excellent. Nothing from a can is his boast. Mike is very congenial and has an excellent sense of humor and a quick come-back for any teasing.

The room was small but very clean. The bathroom was small with a single shower with an 18” door. Those who have met me know I had to be greased to get in and out as my waist is 50”. I had no concern about falling down there, as I was entombed standing up. Try washing your feet without bending over? It’s like trying to touch your elbow with the same hand. Don’t drop the soap. If I fell in that shower you might as well say a prayer; put a cross on it because they couldn’t get me out. Just a mite better than the tub I was stuck in last year. Europe is against my getting clean. I must lose weight before returning to Europe!

There is no lift but Mike explained he gave us the room with the fewest stairs (10 winding). [He would not give up his family quarters on the first floor]. Their children would wander in and out of the kitchen and dining room and he would caress their heads between mixing ** whatever. It made you feel at home. Mike never stopped moving or smiling. I asked if he gave guided tours in his spare time.

The Gasthaus is about six city blocks to the square (Marktplatz) where we watched the clock approach the hour so we could see the figures appear. It must have been too cold because they stayed in the window that opened and shook their heads; “No way Hans”.

We also went to the crime museum. I had been there with my grandson in 1998 (or thereabout) but LG had not seen it. I wanted her to see what they did to women who gossiped. She would not go in without me so I had to climb three flights of stairs up and down that placed me in severe pain. (She got even). However it was worth seeing a second time.

We returned to the Gasthaus for me to load up on Tylenol. The room was cold and no heat came from turned on radiators. Mike said heat only comes on if the temp outside was cold enough to have heat. LG was in bed fully clothed with a sweater and jacket and a feather down quilt over her; telling me she would not spend another night if the room remained cold. I found a dead moth in the bathroom. It probably froze to death. I went back to car and unpacked a sweater and warm shirt and Canadian Club and sweet vermouth. I had my Manhattan to keep me warm.

We wandered through town and did our shopping at Käthe Wohlfahrt's as well as several other shops

I was defrosted before we went back to town to the “Roter Hahn” restaurant where Ken and I had eaten in ’98 and loved the Wienerschnitzel. It covered a large plate and there were side dishes of freedom fries and mixed vegetables. The food was fantastic and plentiful. After great food and two beers and anticipation of a Manhattan awaiting me at the Gasthaus the world seemed brighter.

At 9:45 the room was comfortable with the radiator set at 6, the highest setting. LG was able to sleep with six layers of clothes and the feather comforter. Free breakfast tomorrow but I am too stuffed to think about it. (I’ll be OK by breakfast).

We spent the next day walking and shopping and packing boxes to mail home. Postage exceeded content value but it has more significance than buying the same stuff at Wal Mart when we get home.

2 hr 37 minutes to Boppard is what Mapquest told us. That was probably at the speed of those who passed us when I was doing 80. It took 4½ hours with only one short stop for directions. (I am learning). Mapquest was quite accurate in distances and the signs to look for, but assume the distance is an approximation as I found on my way to AMS from Cochem.

L’Europe Hotel borders the Rhine and when we entered the hotel we found the owners were in Chicago and had left the management in the hands of Frau Goebels [Goebels is the name I gave her] and her husband. Her greeting sounded like a command. (I was afraid of her). She stood erect and you knew she was in command of the troops. Her quiet husband sat in a chair behind the desk for our full visit. Frau Goebels checked you in, checked you out, she ran the dining room and kitchen and looked over her husband's shoulder to supervise him if he took money for postcard purchases. He must have been doing it wrong because she would scowl and point to the computer and say something like dumbkof! It’s possible that Germany could have won the war with her in the front lines.

Frau was efficient, authoritive, commanding – one to be feared. I came to attention each time she looked in my direction. In truth she turned out to be a very nice woman who came from Holland. But she did have the “air of authority. She even smiled at "check out", but I was still afraid of her.

The Hotel has a lift and our room had a balcony that looked up and down the Rhine River. The rooms are clean and the bathroom a decent size. It is only about four miles from the center of town. It is slightly noisy with train traffic across the river. Dinner is served after 6:30 and no lunches are served but there are a snack and beverages machines in the lobby. Dinner was a buffet with a single entrée and a very limited salad bar under the watch of Frau Goebels.

LG started washing and hanging clothes within five minutes of arrival. I was restricted to a chair on the balcony away from hanging washed pants and wet shirts. It was a quiet and peaceful scene with church bells chiming on the hour. There were paths along the Rhine under our balcony and cruise ships and barges chugged along the river.

Falling out of bed is no problem as the mattress is only 18” off the floor. If you want to watch TV you must leave a 15 Euro deposit at reception desk for a remote.

There was a wine festival in town with fireworks and wine tasting and music but we were told parking would be next to impossible so we tried to walk it. I gave up after about one mile when I felt I was walking on my knees. The walk on a path along the river is nice if you are athletic. We drove to town the next day but it was not as quaint as others on the river. We extended our drive down the west side of the Rhine and visited the castles Rhinefels and Schönburg. LG climbed to the top while I guzzled a few beers. The drive is very scenic and fantastic if you like to see castles on both sides of the Rhine. Those rulers must have really raked in the Euro charging boats to pass. But how those Knights ever reached those castles in armor amazes me. Even in the castles to be able to climb those stairs they had to be on steroids.

One castle was on an island in the center of the Rhine; very picturesque (Pfalzgrafenstein). A full day of driving and photo taking and shopping in St. Goar; some beer, some apple strudel, cherry strudel, and rhubarb strudel, and Black forest cake to take back to the hotel to substitute for lunch and perhaps dinner.

We had the free breakfast, under the watchful eye of Frau Goebels. She was a treasure to watch. Everything is so structured. God help you if you try to sit at a table not designated with your name on it. You get your arm ripped off as you are directed to a table she feels is appropriate. We sat and watched her take charge of everyone who entered with her arms waving endlessly directing the waitresses in every direction. The buffet was fair. Plenty of coffee and orange juice, boiled eggs, cereal, meats and cheeses, hard rolls (what else?) and BIG signs: “DO NOT TAKE ANY FOOD FROM RESTAURANT”. Another; “DO NOT BRING ANY FOOD INTO RESTAURANT EVEN FROM RECEPTION DESK”. And Frau Goebels was at the door to enforce the edicts. Don’t fear Frau Goebels, as owners have probably returned. But I’ll bet the signs remain.

Boppard to Trier - Frau Goebels bid us goodbye from the reception desk with one eye on the restaurant exit to be certain no one left with a bulging pocket. I’ve been kidding about Frau Goebels in the interest of good copy. Three cheers and a salute to Frau Goebels!

We were ready to go by 9:30 and I decided to sit on the balcony to take one last look at the Rhine. – I plopped down onto a plastic chair not realizing the night dew had formed a pool of water on the chair seat. I came out like a rocket but too late. I looked as if I had lost control. Back to the suitcase to get a change of clothing. Traveling with me is not easy but it is challenging and interesting and sometimes fun.

I think I missed a Mapquest turn off and I stopped for directions 20KM up the road and was told to continue 12KM up the road to A48, and follow it to Trier. This route eliminated many twists and turns on our 1½ hour journey and we arrived in Trier three hours later. Not bad as we were traveling 120 – 130KM/hr versus the 190KM others were doing. They passed us blinking their lights and beeping their horns. 72 to78 MPH is plenty fast for me in a Volks.

Trier turned out to be a disappointment for us. The NH Hotel was on the outskirts of town and the city looked too daunting for me to enter. I could not follow the street signs so we went straight to the Hotel with only 3 stops for help. The last guide said; “Follow me” and he took us to the hotel entrance and drove off with a wave. Otherwise we might still be wandering around Trier.

NH hotel was the best so far. 14 floors on the Mosel River, clean, big rooms, 2 queen beds, fantastic restaurant with the best buffet we have had. The staff speaks sufficient English, there are 3 elevators and our room had a side view of the river and part of the industrialized zone. We arrived about noon and check in was 3PM so the room did not face the river directly as we had requested but I did not want to wait for a desired room to be cleared.

NH Hotel Zurmaiener Strasse 164 54292 Trier Tel - 651/9280 ~ Fax - 651/9282222 Email - nhtrier@nh-hotels.com

The decision to drive to city center came easy when I looked at a street map and decided we would probably never find the hotel again and seeing another Roman ruin was not worth the time or risk. A short nap and short walk along the river, and a little CNN turned out to be a good decision. Dinner was 18 Euro/person and well worth it. Eating early and just beating a tour bus arrival was a good decision as was a pre-meal cocktail, a glass of wine with dinner and coffee that ended our day. Parking was under the hotel or across the street.

Next day was dark and rainy. We left Trier and were fortunate to get lost again so we did get to see the Roman ruins in the center of the city, unintentionally.

We arrived in Cochem (via Moscow) – a 1½ hr drive from Trier in 3 hours. Our room at Hotel Weinhaus Klasen was not available until 3 PM. So we drove into town and took over 40 minutes to find a handicap (or any) parking space. It is metered parking but cars waited idling for long periods waiting in line for someone to leave. When they do leave you may find it is only one hour parking. We kept returning to car to feed the meter at 1 Euro for an hour. We had intended to take a ride on a bus to the Reichburg Castle but it was a 1½ hour tour and the on hour meter did not permit it. It was a beautiful castle and I wish we could have walked from the hotel but it was over 2 miles.

Hotel Weinhaus Klasen Sehler Anlagen 8 56812 Cochem Tel - 2671/7601 ~ Fax - 2671/91380 Email - weinhaus-klasen@t-online.de

Hotel Weinhaus Klasen has 11 doublerooms, all with balcony overlooking the Mosel River across the street and every room has a sensational view of the Reichburg Castle. It is run by the family but mainly by a sweetheart of a young woman with a small son who would bid us in English, good-nite after dinner and good morning at breakfast before he left for school.

I asked if we could cancel one of the two days we had planned to stay and there was no fuss, just a 4 Euro increase to 84 Euro for the one night, that I thought was more than fair. Later we wished we had stayed the 2nd day but we had been lost so many times LG felt we should get an early start to AMS as it would probably take us 2 days to go 250 miles.

The room was great, the family young and energetic, and very friendly. Our dinner was excellent. There is some road noise but not unbearable. The view is worth the noise and as tired as we have been the noise did not keep us awake. The parking was in the rear of the hotel with a few extra spaces 2 doors away. Cochem is well worth a visit and as nice as our lodging was, if I returned I would like to get a room in, or closer, to town for a short stay.

We left Cochem about 8:30 for the 3½ hour drive to AMS per Mapquest. In about an hour we were close to Köln and Mapquest said to go .02 miles and turn right up the ramp. We went 3 miles before we found a right turn so we turned off to the right. After 60 minutes we recognized no mapquest landmarks or signs and found ourselves 30 miles south of Cochem. The Police I asked to locate us on the map had a good laugh and I had a temper tantrum. The next two hours were in pain and despair and driving with a very unhappy camper.

What I thought were so many wind turbines were the same ones, coming and going and coming. I told LG to look at all of those wind turbines -- and there weren’t really that many; we had passed the same ones 3 times.

We had to re-trace an hours drive North again to Köln. I asked LG to be certain we did not make the turn to the right up the ramp a second time. We arrived at Best Western Hotel Eden in AMS about 5:30PM and the garage about 6PM. I was determined to reach the 3½ hour drive to AMS the same day.

The Best Western was shabby, old and worn. The lobby is the most attractive part of the hotel. Because we arrived a day early I was told there were no rooms available. I was shown an apartment next door belonging to BW for 260 Euro a night that I would not sleep in. It was dirty, dingy, and had too many stairs. I returned to hotel and asked if I could leave my luggage until my reservation the next day and I would go find another room for the night, suddenly, a room became available for 160 Euro a night. I was tired, cranky, and woefully accepted the room.

I had been told Parking was nearby, by reservations made in the US. Nearby became 1 block, over the bridge another block, around the circle, four long blocks more and in the garage of the Hotel Fulton. The concierge handed me a ticket for 25 Euro for 24 hours. I drove around one way streets three times (lost naturally) and could not find the garage and had to return and get an off duty concierge to drive with me to find it. I needed a taxi to get back to hotel.

Suggestion; skip BW Eden, and AMS. It is a wicked town to drive in where bicycles and motor scooters have the right of way and they make certain you know it. A bike rider can cut in front of a car or bus, get hit and be in the right in court. Pedestrians beware; you are no safer than a bus.

The photo of BW hotel Eden on Internet shows a boat on a canal just outside of the entrance so I thought “how convenient, we can take a canal ride as we step out the door of the hotel. WRONG! The boat is a live-in barge and to get to the canal boats you must walk ½ mile.

I was told that taxes and fees would be about 25.50 Euro for 3 days. They were actually 211.06 Euro. Their 535 Euro for 3 days became 817 Euro. ($1303).

The room was dirty, old, the carpet was torn and dirty, the curtains were dirty, the shower curtain was black with mold and mildew at the bottom, the sheets were too small for the bed, the bedcovers were worn thin and faded, the mattresses had springs protruding. The goodies in the bathroom were 5 shower caps with no soap or shampoo. We had to ask each day and on last day were told they only come in the new portion of the hotel, of which I did not know existed. My complaint letter to BW CEO asked that question as well as detailing my opinion of the hotel

Regardless, the next day turned out to be a sunny cool one and I returned the car before 8:30AM to avoid another day of rental and another garage fee. I had lain awake most of the night because after I parked the car another car had come into the garage and blocked my exit. The attendant told me he did not open until 10AM (too late to return car) but that I could get key in Hotel and he would see that my exit were not blocked. Luckily when we walked to garage at 7:30 a woman had just opened the door and I jumped in before it closed. My car was not blocked in so we drove out into the fray with maps on lap and counting canals crossed to find the street we were to turn right. The streets on the map do not match the street signs so at each traffic light stop LG would open the window and ask where we were and where Overtoom Street was. A few annoyed drivers behind me would begin the horn chorus but I had become immune to impatient cursing drivers. They had persecuted me for 2 days by pulling in front of me and flashing their lights and blowing their horns. It was my turn! The light would change and we had to repeat questions at the next light. Miraculously we turned left on Overtoom Street and looked closely at the numbers on buildings until we found 197; and there by golly was Eurocar on the far side of the street. So with a U turn on a busy Street I pulled up on sidewalk to see a drive into the garage about 50’ ahead of me with LG screaming; “You are on the sidewalk”, as if I didn’t know; - and continued on sidewalk until I could turn into the drive, to the amazement of an attendant who looked on in panic. I’ll bet he expected a lot of dings on that car?

Disposition was easy with a very pleasant woman speaking excellent English. No damage to car and a tank full of gas and she closed out my contract with the words; “you will be contacted by Zurich”. What a relief! Back to hotel, about a 10 minute ride by taxi for 30 Euro. Don’t take taxis in AMS. They are expensive.

At hotel there was a different concierge who told us that there was a diamond merchant who would pick us up at hotel at no charge and if we purchased something would probably drive us back to hotel. It turned out to be within walking distance and a shorter walk than to the garage. It was an interesting tour with a lady greeting us and explaining how diamonds are graded and priced by color, clarity and cut and placed in ring or necklace settings, all available in 30 minutes.. I had taken a 4 day course years ago when I was an Investment consultant and this was a good refresher. Then we went from room to room seeing behind windows the various stages of grading and cutting and polishing. A tour I would recommend to everyone. After the lecture and with no pressure to buy they offered beverages in a souvenir shop (no diamonds) across the complex.

From there we visited the flower market that was at least 10 city blocks in length. We spent about 1½ hours walking through the different stalls. I wished that my camcorder could also pick up the scents as well as the color. I have never seen such beautiful and various flowers in my lifetime. Of course you could buy the flowers or the bulbs or seed. The flowers even hung from the ceiling and you had to be careful walking among the hundreds of pots, barrels, vases and other containers like wooden shoes. I would recommend you see the flower market in AMS if you go there. There are bouquets of every imaginable flower and every imaginable color. Thousands of bulbs in a myriad of packaging; in wooden shoes, boxes, cans, net bags, all ready to be shipped.

After several souvenir purchases we walked to the Water cruise “Fun and Go” docks and took a very nice canal cruise with English, German, French spiels. It took about one hour and one beer and we walked back to the Hotel.

That was one benefit of the BW hotel. It was within walking distance of both the flower market and the cruise dock, for a normal person; I ain’t normal.

Food at the hotel was very expensive and choices narrow and I was getting tired of pork loin and sausage and sauerkraut but they had a locked in market. There were no other restaurants in the area that we could locate.

I was not meant for crowded restaurants. We were squeezed between two tables 4” apart so three tables had to be moved together to get behind one table. I don’t like the smell of fish so (you can already guess the ending) two French young men were on one side and ordered fish and sat talking and cooing at one another while the fish got cold and more odorous. When one finally got to eating and finishing his dinner he lapped up the fish juice with a roll and then started wiping his finger over the plate for the last drops of juice and licking his finger between swipes. I was just waiting for him to pick up his plate and lick it.

The table on the other side sat a French woman and a man (we moved to accommodate) and they attacked the rolls like pigs being slopped. BOTH ordered fish and it came with a gravy bowl placed at the end of their table a few inches from my lap. Each time he reached to tear a roll asunder he nudged the gravy bowl closer to the end of the table. I visualized my newly purchased vest splattered with fish gravy but there was no space to move away. She finished her fish in about 45 seconds. (I thought the French savored their food) The waiter should have given her a shovel vs silverware. I’ve only seen arms fly that fast in a tennis game. I gave up coffee and desert before I had a gravy bath. I came back to my room, opened the window, threw myself on the bed and took a breath of fresh air. Tonight I am asking for a table in the middle of the street. It is safer. [Notice how I switch tenses? That is because I am tense.]

Rainy awakening today – damp – wet – windy and a challenge to sight-seeing. The only tours that left from the Hotel were all day tours to surrounding areas in Holland and leave at 9:30AM; so packing was a better choice. Much time is spent determining what goes in a check-in suitcase and what in a carry-on and what to declare at customs and how much was spent on your treasures. The rain stopped about 10AM so we tried to buy tram tickets at hotel desk but they had run out of them? (3 days in a row). We were sent to the Post office 2 blocks (½ mile) away where we bought 7 tickets for 6.4 Euro [You can purchase ticket on tram but I was told it was much more expensive.** not if your going downtown once.]. Each ticket is good for a zone so to go downtown took two tickets. Clever, since you end up with one unused ticket unless you want to walk part of the way. The conductor stamps the number of tickets used when you board the tram. By the time we walked to the tram stop 2 blocks away (½ mile) in the other direction; I felt I was walking on my knees. There are also canal boat taxis but we did not try them. We did not know where and how to board them and where they stopped. They have many stops where you can get off and on during the day.

Tram transportation is less expensive than a taxi. It was a nice ride to Central station (RR in center of town). We went to tourist office and only tours to the red light district were walking tours and the tour for the city was 2 blocks away (½ mile). So “racked in pain and toting that backpack”; we started toward St Nicholas church, close to the red light district. I became very religious and headed for the pew to sit and rest while LG lit candles and bought rosary beads that smell like roses. Only 2 blocks away (½ mile) was the red light district and I was greatly disappointed that no women appeared in windows of buildings. The area was crowded with young studs in their 20’s.

LG wanted to go to the shopping streets only 2 blocks away (½ mile) so we went through an alley and in the alley were window doors with drapes, but look where the drapes are drawn and about 3’ back is what I was looking to see. What surprised me was how beautiful they were. I was told (I think by Oldgybe) the fat ugly ones are during the day and the goodies at night. LG told me I could try the last one we saw who was extremely beautiful but I was afraid to leave LG alone with the rowdy studs. (That was my excuse). But I got to see the red light district and the merchandise. ***TRIP SUCCESSFUL****

Coming out of a store I thought someone had thrown water out of an upper window as my head and vest were wet. LG said; “bend over and let me see the top of your head” – when I did she confirmed I had been christened by a bird. Paper napkins cleaned me up until we got back to hotel for a shower. LG said it was good luck! I don’t see how it is “good luck” to be crapped on by a bird?

On the way to the shopping district a crowd gathered and we found we had reached the Lindburg city tour bus station. We purchased 2 tickets for 40 Euro and a man with an umbrella said; “follow me”. Two blocks later (½ mile) I asked if this were a walking tour? It took 10 minutes for a bus to arrive and it was 2 blocks (½ mile) away. They loaded the top of the bus first and when I pointed to my cane he allowed us in the lower level so we had 1st row seats. The tour was in English, French, Spanish, German, and I think Swahili. Luckily most were English so I think we had the better interpretation. [A good tip when booking a tour is to determine if it is multi-lingual. Try to get one only in English (if you speak English).] I think I recorded a lot of movie footage. After 1½ hours we stopped at Gasson Diamond center (Guides get a cut) where we had been the day before. I saw a rickshaw taxi; a bike with a 2 person carriage attached and asked the peddaler (driver) the cost to pedal us back to BW. He asked his visiting clients if he could be away for 15 minutes and we hopped in and had the FUN experience of going 2 blocks and over the bridge in a rickshaw. It was worth the 7 Euro not to have to walk back and have the novel experience of a rickshaw ride. This young man gave us his card to call for a full day city tour.

Can you imagine the strain of pedaling a bike with 2 passengers behind for a full day?

We made early reservations for dinner to get an end table and hopefully finish eating before the crowds arrived. We thought about a candlelight boat cruise but it begins at 9PM and I was worn out from my 2 block (accumulated 4 mile) walks. I was told the canals and bridges all lit up at night are a great experience. I’m convinced I cannot do another Europe trip without another knee replacement

But we did find the secret of ordering a nice meal. Look at the combo’s. For one price you get an entrée (limited choices) and dessert or appetizer (OR) appetizer and dessert for the price of an entrée. My choice of braised veal and crème broulie was perfect.

I have driven my way through many countries in 34 years and in all of that time I have never been lost as many times accumulated as in this one year. Even in Portugal where at times you must drive north or south to get east or west did I get lost as much as this year. Could it be old age? If so it must be LG?

We had booked the Courtyard hotel for our last night in AMS because I thought it was closer to the Airport and we had to arise early. I was told the taxi fare would be about 45 Euro. It was 64 Euro ($94). Be ready to declare bankruptcy if you visit AMS.

It turned out that BW was not that much further but the Courtyard was a superior hotel compared to the BW. It was the best Hotel we had booked and less expensive than the BW. It was on the outskirts but it was new and clean and roomy and had a shower I could fit into. We had dinner in a bistro next to the hotel and the food was excellent, inexpensive (relatively) and you could bill your meal to your hotel room. I had ….something that was like a crepe (pancake) the size of a large pizza and combined with bacon and apple and several cheeses. I covered mine with syrup and powered sugar. LG had Dutch steak that tasted like a filet, and freedom fries. Food is about ½ to ¾ the cost of food at BW and equal if not better.

There was a children’s party with about 20 to 30 children and their parents that made the restaurant noisy but interesting. All of the children ages 2 to 6 were blond and cute as buttons. One girl, age 2, kept pulling the table cloth off of the table and dropping it to the floor; another boy age 3 kept (20 to 30 times) throwing his train to the floor and the fathers who were watching them patiently would reach down, replace the item on the table with no change of expression. It must have been “Mother’s day” for they sat on the opposite end of the table ignoring the action. One experienced Dad had a duffle bag filled with toys and handy wipes and other essentials that he kept pulling out as needed. What amazed me was the tolerance of the fathers. My granddad was Dutch and that stood for: “No nonsense”.

The party dispersed in about 2 minutes just as we finished eating. Bim, bam, thank you Maam and the packed cars were out of the parking lot.

We packed and had everything ready to bring to lobby at 6AM as limo departed to airport at 6:30. Got the cart at 6:15 and checked out [no hidden charges as in BW] just as limo was ready to leave. We were so smug and organized. Loaded luggage and driver started out of driveway when I remembered I had left the airline tickets on dresser in the room. “STOP” I yelled; and LG came out of her seat. She was not a happy camper when she went back to get tickets. However we made the airport with 2½ hours to spare. We loaded our luggage on a cart and LG started to look for a tax refund office. It was closed. Panic ensued. Next stop Continental check in and a call for a wheelchair

What a great decision. We whisked through security and to the gate of departure with sufficient time to spare. LG had a few Euro left so decided to risk going thru security a second time to buy chocolate.

Took off about 9:45AM - Bloody Mary, Bloody Mary, Bloody Mary; warm cashew nuts, a glass of Champagne with a salad, a sip of water, appetizers, (a choice of 3 and I took all 3), champagne, a sip of water and we were 641 miles out at 11AM and over Ireland. I made out with the stewardess and had 2 more glasses of Champagne before dinner.

Dinner was steak, new potatoes, new peas, carrots, 4 cheeses and cantaloupe. I’m going to live on an airline!

3500 miles to go and I told stewardess I would walk the rest of the way if she would give me half fare and another glass of champagne. [The champagne was kicking in]. She asked if she could bring me anything else so I ordered ice cream with Carmel sauce, strawberries, coffee and another mile high experience. [They couldn’t kick me off at 34,000 feet?]

I told the pilot who was resting beside me that I was writing my eulogy and he turned pale.

I called the stewardess the “love of my life” so had two more glasses of Champagne and then she gave me a bottle of water. I do not know why? She said she still had 1½ bottles of Champagne remaining.

Wheelchair was waiting in Newark and again we whisked through security and customs; Continental Air was on the ball! Tampa by 5:30, on time, and greeted by LG's sister and brother-in-law who drove me home. Happy days are here again!

By now you probably guess I was flying business class and I do not want you to think that is bragging. I have worked very hard since age 14 and I have been very fortunate and lucky and resourceful to be able to live until my final curtain and “do it my way”. They say “You can’t take it with you” but I’m gonna try; or spend it before I go.

Paul