Day 3 - And so we say goodbye to the Tauber Valley and head in the direction of Chiemsee taking autobahn A7 south to A6 and then east towards Nürnberg. I didn't think the girls would appreciate the Romantic Road south of Rothenburg enough to justify the time and I wanted to be at Herrenchiemsee palace sometime around noon. Dee Dee takes the wheel initially but is comfortable as a passenger on the autobahns so I gladly take over driving. I prefer the rural winding backroads to lengthy strips of asphalt but I have no problem with Germany's well maintained highways and before you know it we are motoring south on A9 towards Munich. I cruise comfortably between 140 and 160 kmph (84 to 96 mph) in the center lane and can hang with the best of em. Those red circled signs 'recommending' 130 kmph as the speed limit seem to be indicating the 'minimum' recommended speed for most Germans. :-) I top out occasionally at 180 (108 mph) in the left lane but carefully keep an eye on my rearview mirror. I don't remember once being overtaken while in the left lane but I witnessed plenty who were and the fact that 'flashing headlights' are verboten does not deter several from using that technique. It seems almost understandable when you see some cars staying in that left lane far longer than they should. 'Road rage' and 'bumper tag' do exist on the autobahns. But for the most part the Germans are polite drivers and respect the rules of the road. At least that has been my experience. If I lived in Europe I would have to have one of those souped up motorcycles. They seldom stay in backed up traffic - just zooming in and out as tho they have special rules of their own. We make it to the Munich bypass A99 and are quickly onto A8 heading towards Chiemsee. No backups from accidents or construction the entire route. Our car radio was set to increase it's volume and interupt the station and even tape playing to warn of any Stau in the area. I'm sure that is a great idea for the Germans traveling the same roads each day who can sometimes take an exit and find another way. We just drive on and hope the problem being broadcast is not in front of us.
Exiting at Bernau we travel north following the signs to Prien and the boat docks. It's a cool, damp and dreary day but there are plenty of cars in the parking lots. Armed with umbrellas and backpacks - Kelli, Amy and myself are on the first boat available leaving for the island of Herreninsel (10 DM per roundtrip). Dee Dee, thinking that the boat ride might trigger her motion sickness problem, makes herself comfortable on the lakefront watching swans and passing tourists. There are plenty of souvenir shops to keep her busy in our absence so I don't worry about her becoming bored while waiting for us to return. We grab seats in the front and wrap up for a cool, windy, drizzly boatride of about 20 minutes on Bavaria's largest lake.
From the main dock at Herreninsel you have about another 15 minutes (more or less) of walking to get to King Lugwig II's final building project (that was actually started). It was only partially completed before he died and he had only lived at Herrenchiemsee for about a week total. Still, if you are a Ludwig fan (as I have been for some time) then this trek is well worthwhile (especially if you want to show your children all of Ludwig's masterpieces the same trip). We arrive to find part of the palace shrouded with canopies. It's difficult to find a landmark in Germany that isn't undergoing some type of restoration work anymore. I understand the necessity of it - I just hate not being able to take a 'clean' picture. This year (as during my last trip) everyone of Ludwig's castles turns out to be partially draped and being worked on. The line for English tours is tours is short so I anticipate a lengthy wait. The girls know that I have plenty of material at home on Ludwig's palaces (they can read about it again later) so I convince them that the German language tour will be good enough for us. We are in and out in short order and the girls are very impressed with what they have seen. Feeling good about the day so far I treat the girls to a horse carriage ride back to the boat dock. The rain is holding off and we are back at Prien with the entire trip taking about two hours.
Amy and Kelli saved their money and both started our trip with 300 DM each. Amy decided that she wanted to buy a German hat and fill it with hat pins throughout the trip so she bought her cute little grey hat at Prien and her first pin was a white Chiemsee swan. It was at one of the Prien souvenir stands that I was approached by an American gentleman and asked if I was staying at Chiemsee's AFRC (Armed Forces Recreation Center). I explained to him that we would be staying at a farm while in the area and he seemed amazed that someone could even do that. Then he asked me 'why' we would want to do that. I commenced to expound on the virtues of farmstays in my best BavariaBen persona - to him and everyone standing around listening. I also explained as politely as possible that I did not come thousands of miles to Germany on vacation to sit around jaw jacking with a bunch of other Americans. Sure I enjoy speaking to the occasional American or English tourist but my primary mission always is to avoid the crowds and typical 'tourist' scenes as much as possible. That's difficult to do sometimes when you are attempting to show your family the primary tourist attractions of southern Germany but being able to escape in the evenings to an 'untouristy' farm or German zimmer frei is the only way to go in my book.
So we ease back onto the roads and anticipating the winding B305 (also known as the Alpenstraße) Dee Dee takes the driver's seat. Our final destination for the day is Unterwössen (between Marquartstein and Reit Im Winkl) and the Bauernhof 'Stoanerhof'. This is a beautiful farm which I selected from one of my obscure bauernhof catalogs based on it's appearance, price and location.
The Döllerer family sent me a brochure in February and altho the farm, village and surrounding area were beautiful - I started to second guess my decision when I saw that the farm was located so close to town. But the girls loved the location. Kelli could walk two blocks to the Postamt to call her boyfriend - there was a toystore just around the corner for Amy and Dee Dee didn't have to drive anywhere. I was the only one less than excited about not being off in the boonies somewhere. But this farm turned out to be a good choice and we were impressed with it's operation. The guest quarters are relatively new and everything was very clean and shiny. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the village and the local grocery store.
That evening - while Kelli writes a letter to her boyfriend - the rest of us walk 3 blocks to a local restaurant - the Gasthof zum Bräu, Hauptstraße 70, 83246 Unterwössen, Tel-08641/97560 - where we slowly pick over wurst and cheese plates - nurse a few biers - while enjoying a delightful 'Zitherabend'. The very dignified and smooth voiced gentleman behind the instrument and microphone was often joined by various patrons belting out their favorite tunes and on several occasions the entire restaurant would burst into song and start clapping. A very enjoyable evening with free entertainment to boot. Final song - final set - Lili Marleen. If I could find a place like this in Texas I would go every week. It was just outstanding and what a lucky find in this little town. Back to the farm for a good nights sleep. Everyone's bodyclocks seem to be on German time now.
Day 4 - I'm up early as usual - making my early morning coffee with my handy dandy immersion coil. We brought along several coffee mugs to use early in the trip and leave as little Texas mementos when we find some nice German souvenir mugs to replace them. I prefer the wonderfully strong German coffee (while in Germany) but I don't like disturbing the farm Frau for a cup before we actually eat breakfast - so I brew my own with those little Folger's single packs when I'm up and about early. Works like a charm. Breakfast is set for 0815 and I like to be on time. Typical zimmer frei Frühstück here. The only special note I make is that each of us has a Kiwi on a plate and that the china is beautiful. Frau Döllerer impresses me as a very prim and proper lady who keeps a tight house. That impression is still with me because I never saw her in farm work clothes working in the barn. She was always very ladylike and all business. This morning we are on our way to Salzburg (rain or shine) and the weather looks like it could go either way. We head NE cross country to pick up A8 near Siegsdorf with Dee Dee at the wheel. This is an easy morning drive and traffic is moving right along. After a quick autobahn Tankstelle stop for an Austrian roadway sticker (10.50 DM for one week) we make it into Salzburg around 1000. We exit the underground parking garage and amble along Getreidegasse (Salzburg's famous shopping street) window shopping as far as Mozartplatz.
The girls get plenty of pictures walking around the Residenz and Dom areas even tho it is raining most of the morning.
They are impressed with the Fortress but are not interested enough to take the funicular up for a tour. The Frau is concerned about the ride up - Kelli doesn't care - and Amy wants to see any castle she can. My vote would only cause a tie so I opt to let the ladies shop instead. I would like to point out that I am not a 'pushy' tour guide. I point out possibilities and give my group options every day. What they decide to do is their choice. I have seen it all before and most of it several times. The girls show little interest in Mozart, cemeteries or churches today (except for Amy). They are in a hurry to get back to the shops.
I use the time to do a little genealogical research on my family. Within a short time I come across the records of a great-great grandfather - Samuel Benjamin. Records indicate that Samuel retired from the Austrian military, moved his family to west Texas and became a farmer - built himself a bauernhof, rented out zimmer frei and ran a Pony Express way station. Samuel was responsible for the first European Tour Guide service in Texas and word had it that folks took to calling him Salzburg Sam.
Fine looking family! Can you detect a family resemblance?
We last about 4 hours in Salzburg and make our way back to the farm. I make arrangements with Max-Josef (14 yr old Döllerer son) to give us a tour of the farm after his zither lesson. Max has been playing the zither for 5 years and I'm sure one day he will probably be playing at the zum Bräu. He shows at the appointed time and gives Amy and I the grand tour. Max's English is as bad as my German but we have an interesting conversation. Even tho this bauernhof sits in a populated area - the farmstead extends for some distance to the rear with their barns and pastures.
The ground is wet and muddy so after about 45 minutes we are back and heading for Marquartstein (3 km) to check out their sommerrodelbahn. Pstuyvsant and myself are hooked on the summer luge that seem to be popping up everywhere nowadays. Our favorite is still the excellent long concrete chute near Lermoos. When we arrive the park has only one hour til closing and after getting a good look at the rodelbahn I can see that it is short and more of a kiddy ride than what we are looking for. The admission price is for all day and since there was no offer of a reduced price for just an hour - we passed on this park.
Back in the wagon we head south to check out Reit Im Winkl and have a bite to eat. As you travel B305 (Alpenstraße) if you spot gliders in the sky you will know you are near Unterwössen as their glider school is well known in the area. We spot 4 gliders in the air at one time. Another thing you become aware of traveling this road is the beautiful tall Maypole in each village with the various representations of the occupations prominent in that particular village. Reit Im Winkl is particularly beautiful and seems crammed with hundreds of flowery balconied houses. This village is geared for the winter skiing scene so summer lodging is very reasonable. After looking thru several souvenir shops just prior to closing time I spot a nice looking Pension/Cafe near where we had parked just to the south of town. The posted prices are fantastic and as it turns out so is the food. The evening is calm and cool so we find a nice spot on the outside terrace and order schnitzels all around (9.90 DM for schnitzel, bratkartoffeln or pommes, and bread). I enjoy a huge Jägerschnitzel and Paulaner bier.
I am so impressed with the prices that I ask the waitress for a haus prospectus. We are soon joined by the owner and chef Wolfgang Frank who brings a brochure to me and a chocolate ice cream cone to Amy. He goes back inside to get his pictures and proceeds to tell us about his 3 month visit to Austin, Texas when he purchased 3 Jaguars, a Porsche and a Cadillac - shipped them back to Germany where he works on them in his shop in Ruhpolding - and sold them at a nice profit. I'm impressed with the gentleman and surmiss that he is a very wealthy man considering that he had also just recently purchased this place.
So if you are ever traveling thru Reit Im Winkl - stop by the Kindl - and have a schnitzel. With full bellies we are back to the Stoanerhof to enjoy the rest of the evening relaxing on their beautiful balcony.
