Day 11.... Sunday morning and it's raining.  :0(   Time to leave Munich and the 'fest behind for another year and push on.   It was a great three days but it is time to blaze new trails. Today's route takes us north for an overnighter in everyone's favorite medieval city... Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

According to my bunions - today's weather will consist of rain, followed by occasional rain, changing to more rain later in the day. Just the thing for a 150 mile drive!

The breakfast room is empty, and so after a final pass thru the buffet it is time to pay up, load up, and hit the road.  Leaving the parking lot I head over towards the festgrounds where I pick up the Bavaria Ring which eventually leads to the main drag heading out of town.  Just past Schloss Nymphenburg the blue signs for the A8 to Augsburg pop up and I am finally on the way.

The rain is coming down pretty hard and I end up in a long line of cars creeping our way out of town. An hour later I am leaving the autobahn at Augsburg and picking up the B2 toward Donauwörth where we switch over to the B25 to Nördlingen, Dinkelsbühl, and on into Rothenburg.

The drive is slow, but even with the rain the scenery of the rolling hills and farmland never gets old. The traffic has thinned out to almost nothing and for several miles I have the road to myself.  Around 10:30 I am coming into Dinkelsbühl and on a whim I decide to swing through to see what is going on this rainy Sunday morning.   Driving through the main gate and into the city the tires on the cobblestones start that familiar old thumpity-thump-thump sound as I slow for pedestrians making their way through the rain slicked streets to the church in the center of town.

I always enjoy a visit to Dinkelsbühl as it is much smaller and quieter than it's neighbor just down the road.  Having done several overnight stops here over the years my favorite place is the Gasthof Sonne, run by the family Danner, and located right in the center of town. 

I always get room #5, a large EZ on the second floor, for about DM40. To top it off they serve one of the best breakfast buffets around. Today however, we are just going to do a slow drive-thru for some pics and then push on.

  The rest of the drive is short and soon the familiar sights and landmarks of Rothenburg come into view.  The route into the city goes past the bahnhof then curves around to Galenstrasse where the Zum Rappen, Hotel Hornburg, and a large parkplatz are all located.  Passing through the Galentor it is just a couple of blocks to our destination.. the "Gasthof Marktplatz" located right on the square next to City Hall. 

Having written them several months ago I am given a cozy EZ on the third floor (the kind of dorm loft style with the sloping ceiling to crack your head on) for DM38 per night.   Unfortunately, my favorite haunt the "Zum Greifen" had no openings for this particular date  :0(  so this will have to do.

The main mission for today is to carry out a plan hatched by Ben before I left home.   I am to position myself in front of the webcam located just below the Meistertrunk and he will attempt to catch still shots of me on his computer as the camera does its thing, then post to the Internet for all the world to see (Hey mom...  I'm gonna be a movie star!!  :0)  The plan is to be seated on the 4th wooden post below the camera, right in the left center of the square, at 5 and again at 6 p.m. just to be sure we do this right.  Despite the rain this ought to be a hoot!  In the meantime, there is enough time for a liesurely stroll around the town, walk the wall, and visit the large garden area for sweeping views of the surrounding valley. 

Also on the priority list is a visit to my favorite imbiss, around the corner from the Greifen, which I have frequented for years.  The owner always greets me with a big grin and draws up a "bier vom fass" while I order a schnitzel mit pommes.  The perfect way to sightsee on a day like this.   :0)

After a hearty meal and a couple of brews I head back out in the rain to kill some more time before my world premier on the webcam.  Just beyond the Rodertor I spot a sign in English that says "Internet Cafe" with an arrow pointing to the front door of a small out of the way building on a sidestreet.  Great.... it is only DM10 for an hour and there are only two other customers in the place.  The owner sets me up on AOL and I am off and running.  There are several e-mails to check, then get a message off to Ben and hope he comes online to respond before I have to leave.  No dice... guess he must be having breakfast with the family.

Finally the appointed hour of 5:00 arrives.  Back at the square I take up my position and try to take an appropriate pose considering it is raining steadily, a cold wind is blowing, and I am getting soaked (what some people won't do to have their picture taken!).   I considered mooning the camera but I doubt the nearby crowd would have appreciated it.  :o)  Here is one of the shots that Ben captured with his computer.   A bit grainy but that probably had something to do with the weather. 

It is now late in the day and the crowds are starting to thin out as the tourbuses load up to leave.  It is dark by 6:30 and the streets are glistening under the lights that are now on.  A few brave souls with umbrellas still brave the elements and with no sign of it letting up I reluctantly scrap plans for the Nightwatchman's tour (hey...next time o.k.) and decide the ideal way to end this day is with a bottle of red wine and a book while the rain beats down on the slate roof outside my window.   Despite the weather it has been a good day. Rothenburg is charming as always, rain or shine, and a good place to relax and recharge for the remaining five days ahead.  And so, without further ado, we wrap up our visit to this great little town knowing full well that if the fates are with us we will make a return visit in the future.

Day 12...  It is a bright, sunny, Monday morning with a chill in the air.  I am up early to load up the car and take a last stroll around the quiet streets before breakfast.  A couple of street vendors are starting to set up their fruit stands in the Marktplatz.  The bakery next door is open and the smell of fresh baked bread and pastries is intoxicating.  At 8 am sharp the breakfast room opens, however this feast is just your typical basket of rolls, a couple of slices of cold cuts, and butter and jam.  But hey, the coffee still tastes great!

Backtracking the way I came in I head out past the Galentor toward the bahnhof to make my way out of town, but first it is time for the second gas stop of the trip.  I have a '99 Opel Astra which seems to run forever on a tank.  According to my figures I am getting about 45mpg and so far I have racked up almost 2000 kilometers and still have five more days to go.  I had predicted about 2800 km for the whole trip so it will be interesting to see how close I come.

The sky is cloudless and the bright sun reflects off the dew-covered countryside like a mirror.  I spot several farmers in their little tractors working the land.  Some are plowing and tilling and others are bundling up those big rolls of hay as they prepare for the coming winter.  It is so chilly I have the heater going as I go thru the usual ritual of fiddling with the radio before I resort to playing a couple of german music tapes (always be prepared).

Picking up the A6 and heading west toward Heilbronn the plan is to exit at Neckarsulm and follow the B27/37 along the Neckar valley towards Heidelberg.  Finally, a couple of hours later and I am following the river as it winds thru the Odenwald.  Passing thru Gundelsheim (great castle and bird show BTW at Burg Guttenberg), Zwingenburg, Eberbach, Hirschhorn, and finally ending up in Neckargemund.  Accommodations are to be in the medieval walled town of Dilsberg which sits high atop the local prominent hillside, with a commanding view of the river and surrounding valley.  Dilsberg is up in the hills and the drive is second gear all the way, so with my trusty map in hand I am off to try and locate the home of my host.

For years I have always been curious about what Dilsberg was like but have never visited.  There is not much on the internet regarding accommodations (I think they want folks to stay in Neckargemund) however I was lucky to obtain the address of a private homeowner, Frau Mertens, and had written ahead a few months earlier to nail down a room for two nights.  I had specified the date of arrival, unfortunately not the time, and I arrive about 12:00 only to be greeted by a young German couple sitting on the patio.  They asked if I was the guy from Texas (huh??), to which I promptly responded (thinking they were part of the family) "Indeed I am...is your mother at home?"

I guess their laugh should have been a clue....it turns out that they are not part of the family, but are married and occupy the lower level of the house while the Mertens live above.  Sort of a "vertical duplex", instead of side-by-side, I guess.   Anyway, it seems the Frau had to go into Heidelberg and asked them to stand watch and give me the message she would be back in about two hours.  No big deal, that gives me time to tool around a bit so back down the hill I go and across the river to a little bier and bratwurst stand I know for a noontime snack.

Promptly at 2:00 I am back at the house and sure enough Frau Mertens is waiting for me.   She speaks excellent English and I later find out she is in fact from Belgium, but speaks German, English, Italian, and a sprinkling of French.  Looks like I won't need my Basics for Beginner's manual after all.  :0)

I had asked for a DZ, and as it turns out that is all she has, but I was surprised at the massive size of the room.  Two full-size beds, wall to wall closets, and a big 27" color TV for only DM32 per night.  All three guest rooms are booked and she informs me she always does good business despite the remote location.  This place is definitely not on the backpacker's itinerary.

After settling in, and taking a well earned break, I decide to head into Heidelberg while the weather is still good.  Following the road into town opposite the castle I come out near the bridge and am fortunate to find several parking spots on the street.  Crossing the bridge I stop for photos, and just relax watching the big barges making their way through the locks,

and some local lads in kayaks playing tag directly underneath where I am standing.  The sun is starting to dip below the horizon and casts a bright orange glow across the sky.  The castle sits prominently on the hill looking every bit like all the postcards.

The town is its usual hustle and bustle of activity and though I have reserved tomorrow for official sightseeing I figure I may as well stroll through the main square by the church just to see what's going on.  The sun is going down and all the lights of the shops, hotels,and restaurants are on.  There is a chill in the air and the tourists are out in force looking for places to dine to be followed by a walk along the Fußgängerzone, or a stroll down by the river.

As for my gameplan tomorrow is reserved for touring the Odenwald, visit some of the small towns, catch a bier atop the castle at Hirschhorn, and end the day in Heidelberg.  Sounds like a plan to me...now let's hit the Spar Market for some red wine and munchies!

Day 13... plan for today is to cruise around the Odenwald off the beaten path.  But first, some Frühstück.  Frau Mertens joins me for coffee and we have a nice conversation about her experiences with travelers.  Last night I had heard some conversation in the hall in English so I'm thinking great...some other Americans have found the place.  Not so, it seems one of the guests was from a third world country and since he spoke no German, and the Mertens didn't speak his language they settled on English.  Works for me....

After breakfast I decide it might be a good idea to explore Dilsberg just in case the weather throws me a curve.  Frau Mertens house is just outside the old city walls and I am informed that only residents who live inside the wall, and have a special sticker on their cars, are allowed to drive inside.....hmmm, it seems they have taken neighborhood watch to a new level.  No problem as there is a large car park just outside the wall.

I have no idea what to expect of this quaint old medieval town but I have pictured it to be something on the scale of Rothenburg....wrong!!  First of all it is very small and compact inside the old walls.  There is only one street that enters thru the original gate, makes a sweeping curve thru the town and comes right back to the starting point. The houses are butted up against each other and the narrow street is only about two car lengths wide.  Talk about intimate....

The old street is cobblestone (naturally) and the houses still have the original Fachwerk from centuries ago, but are still carefully maintained by the residents.  The only landmark is a church at the top of the hill complete with an old graveyard in back.   I spot an opening in the wall and venture outside for a walk around its circumference.  That is until I hit a dead end... it seems the residents have gotten creative and have actually converted some of the wider sections of the wall into living quarters... this is wierd.  Unlike Rothenburg there is no way to climb, much less walk, the wall so this is something of a disappointment but hey this is their town.

I stumble across a stone marker which appears to highlight some of the history of Dilsberg.  It mentions the year 1214 so I assume this to be the founding date of the place.  Yep...that's pretty old.

So much for Dilsberg - so time to push on.  The weather is really starting to turn lousy and the first drops of rain appear on the windshield.   Crossing the river at Neckargemund I head toward the cutoff to Erbach to make my way up into the hills of the Odenwald.  There is no particular itinerary, I'm just curious to see what's up there.  The roads twist and turn through the dark fir forests and in some places only wide enough for one car to pass at a time.  According to the map there is another town named Rothenburg up in the hills and of course curiosity drives me on to check it out.   I quickly find out as I see the sign indicating the city limits... this is one of those places that if you blink twice you've missed it.. just a few houses scattered along each side of the road.  I didn't even see a gasthaus or gas station.  So much for that.

Making my way through the hills I pass through the small town of Beerfelden and end up heading over to Erbach before starting back down towards the Neckar.  It is really starting to rain and so I decide to head back towards Hirschhorn for a stop at the castle for some pics and a bier.   Luck is with me as there are no tourbuses and only two other cars when I arrive.   The bad news is that the weather has kept them from setting up the outdoor tables on the patio.  A cold wind is blowing and the rain coming down steadily.  So much for the bier idea  :0( but at least I am able to get a couple of decent shots across the valley.

Back on the road I decide to head into Heidelberg for some lunch and see if the weather is going to give me a break.  Unfortunately it doesn't look good.  Low hanging clouds almost obscure the top of the castle so it looks like a trek to the top is a no go.  I grab a spot in the underground parking garage and decide to play tourist for awhile.  From the church I head out down the length of the Fußgängerzone which is really crowded despite the rain.  The Hard Rock Cafe is going strong and packed with the younger crowd.  The shops appear to be booming as well.  A street minstrel is getting soaked as he stands in the center of the street playing his music while passersby drop an occasional coin into his case.

Meanwhile, I am looking for the nearest imbiss to grab some lunch and get out of the rain for a little while.  Having covered the entire length of the pedestrian zone I spot a familiar wurst stand from previous trips and join the rest of the lunch bunch for a couple of bratwurst and a bier.  May as well salvage something out of the day.

It is now mid-afternoon and it looks like the rain is here to stay.  The planned trip to the castle, and later the tall TV tower are out.  Not wanting to fight the crowds I decide to head over to the riverwalk and cut back towards the Altebrücke and end up back at the church enroute to the car park.  Despite a good soaking it has still been an overall good day as we covered some new territory and after all that's what it's all about.

All goes well until I crank up the car and try to leave the garage.  I put my ticket in the machine expecting the arm to raise but nothing happens.  What's the deal?   I try several times with no luck... by now a couple of cars are lined up behind me and you know what that means.  It's only a matter of time until the horns start blaring and fists start shaking.  Suddenly the guy who sits and monitors the security scanners comes out and informs me I have exceeded the 2 hour free time by about 20 minutes... that'll be 4 marks please.  :0(   Happy to pay the ransom I am off and running reminding myself to read the fine print next time.

Oh well... I still have the Rhine to look forward to, and besides this rain is bound to stop (yeah right!).

Day 14... O.K. so much for Heidelberg and surroundings.  There are three days on the Rhine before this trip becomes history so it is time to move out.  The rain from yesterday has stopped but the clouds are still hanging around so anything can happen.

With a goodbye to Frau Mertens I am off to make my way to the autobahn.  Another whim has struck and I decide to detour down to Karlsruhe.  This place was home for a couple of years in the late 60's courtesy of Uncle Sam.  I have an itch to see if I can find my old neighborhood and the home of the German family I rented an apartment from.  The city is still pretty much like it was but as expected there are some changes.  The old "Wertkauf shopping center" is now a "Super Wal-Mart"....give me a break!  I don't believe this.  A touch of Americana.

I am trying to clear the cobwebs of 30 years as I traverse familiar streets hoping I don't get all turned around.  Before I know it I am entering what used to be the main drag only now it is a Fußgängerzone and, except for streetcars, regular traffic has been rerouted.  Uh oh... now I'm done for.  If the local fuzz catches me it's fine city for sure.  :0(   Having no choice, and unable to turn around, I just follow the streetcar tracks and pretend I am on urgent business as the pedestrians stare.   Eventually I break free and pick up the main drag again with a sigh of relief that the Polizei didn't nab me.

The neighborhood is now starting to look familiar and I have printed off a map of this part of town from the Internet.  Luck is with me and I end up on the right street and in a few minutes I am standing in front of my old apartment building.  For a moment I am tempted to knock on the door just to see if the former owners are still there but I decide not to push my luck.  Suffice it to say I just took some videos for posterity and recalled the memories of long ago.

Visit complete I now backtrack to get back through town to make my way over to my old Kaserne before hitting the autobahn.  I finally come into the former U.S.housing at Paul Revere village...now a german apartment complex.The old commissary is now a Spar Market,the PX a work out center,and the old movie theater just a boarded up empty building.Oh well...nothing stays the same.

I cruise on over to the former Neureut Kaserne which used to be a hustling and bustling facility for Armor and Self-propelled Artillery.  Not so anymore... it was turned back over to the Germans a few years ago and it looks like a disaster.  Iron bars block the main gate, buildings are boarded up, and the grass is knee-high.  There is a sole german guard watching the place and I am only able to get some pics from the outside.  Too bad...

Back to the A5 for the journey north and our ultimate destination of Oberwesel.  The rain has started again and I need to make some time if I am to get there with any part of the day left.  Past Hockenheim I pick up the A61 for the final part of the drive.  This is always the longest stretch of drive on any trip and I usually come up from the Black Forest which makes it even longer.  Today, with the rain slowing things down, it still takes about three hours to make the drive but finally I am entering Bingen on the B42 and make my way up the river.

This year's accommodations are a repeat of last year.  The reason being... price, location, and the friendliness of the owners.  I am booked into the "Weingut Rheingoldschenke" about 2 km up in the hills above Oberwesel.  The Schneiders run the place and also make their own wine.   Michael, the son, speaks good English and always lets me use his computer.   :0)  And... the schnitzels are out of this world.  I am given my old room, a corner EZ with sloped ceiling and a good view of the surrounding vineyards.   The price... DM30 per night.

Tired from the long drive, and the fact it is still raining, I decide to make a trip to the local market for some "necessities", a bottle of red wine and a couple of cans of the local brew.  The next two days will be full ones and I need to unpack and get settled in.  "Herr Schneider... Eine schnitzel mit pommes, bitte."

Day 15.... Only two days left and it looks like the weather will win by a knockout... the day has started out drizzly and overcast.  :0(   After a liesurely breakfast and some pleasant conversation with Herr Schnieder I decide to chance the weather gods and go for it.  The plan is to drive over to Burg Eltz on the Mosel.

For those hearty hikers who like to take the nature route to the castle you can park at Moselkern for the hour long hump ( I did it once and that was enough).  For those like me who like convenience there is a shorter route, and best of all no huffing and puffing.  Driving toward Moselkern you come to the small town of Lasserg.. take a right for 2km to Wierschem, then a left for 3 km until you arrive at the parkplatz.  It is DM1 to park and there is a shuttle van that makes the ¼ mile round trip for DM1 each way.  The walk to the castle is downhill and well worth the Mark to ride back up.   :0)

I pick up a ticket for the tour (DM5) and an English translation since the tour is in German.  A small line has formed and within 10 minutes we are underway.  Burg Eltz is definitely a marvel and still retains its originality.  It always amazes me how they managed to haul the building materials all that way and were able to build something this magnificent in the middle of nowhere.

The tour is thorough and takes about an hour.  Fortunately the guide speaks English and is able to entertain some questions along the way so we are not completely in the dark.  Upon reaching the exit I see our friend the rain is still around and I am glad I don't have to make that long walk back up the hill.  The shuttle bus arrives on cue and quickly fills up with passengers not wanting to walk uphill in the rain.  Like I said... well worth the price.

Backtracking my way out I take a different road and come out at Moselkern.  It is now time to make a choice - Go left to Koblenz and spend some time there or go right into new territory... specifically Cochem.  The right gets the nod and off we go.  There are vineyards on both sides of the river as far as the eye can see and a few tour boats are making their way slowly along the river toward Koblenz.  A cloudy haze is hanging low and the drizzle has become a steady rain.

30 minutes later I am coming into Cochem and can see the huge castle on the hill which overlooks the town.  Several tourbuses are parked in the main parkplatz and a line has formed for the tourboats.  Despite the weather there are a lot of folks out walking along the river and in the shops which line the main drag.

Having done my castle for the day it is sufficient just to get some pics of this one and save a visit for another time.  The main thing is to see what this area of the Mosel looks like to determine if it is worth a few days visit on a future trip.  It gets my vote.

Crossing the river it is time to head back toward Koblenz to pick up the B42 to St.Goar.  After a rest stop for a couple of biers - the rest of the afternoon consists of a liesurely drive all the way to Bingen with photo stops of some of the castles along the way (and to finish off loading up on Ritter Sports at the Spar Market).

Another ritual has to be completed.  In Bacharach I stop by the woodburning shop on the square to visit my old friend Frances who owns the place.  I have been coming here for over 10 years and no trip is complete without picking up a memento.  She is a great artist at woodburning and my house is loaded with plaques and other knick-knacks duly inscribed with name and date.

Despite the weather the day has been a big success.  Rain or shine the Rhine never gets old and even though there is only one more day to go I know it too will be a memorable one.  Chow time!!

Day Last... Like they say all good things must end and so it goes with this year's trip.  But we still have one last day and it is time to make the most of it.

Our checklist of "must see's" and "go do's" is complete.  That leaves this last day to be one of leisure with no particular itinerary.  At least the rain of the last two days has stopped.  About halfway between Oberwesel and Bacharach is the auto ferry which goes over to Kaub.   Pulling up to the loading ramp I get out to film the heavy laden barges chugging against the current as they pass by the medieval toll collection fortress of Pfalzgrafenstein.  A visit to this place is in itself an event and I once timed it just right and had the whole place to myself.

The river is churning and white capped as we slowly make our way across with the engines straining to maintain alignment with the opposite bank.  The ramp drops and one line of cars leaves while another waits to board.  And so it goes... all day, everyday, year round.  Beats being cooped up in a cubicle with a terminal I guess.

Suddenly from out of nowhere the sun is trying to pop thru the clouds and in some areas it has actually cleared up.  This presents a good photo stop opportuntity of the castles on the other side.  The cruise boats from Rüdesheim are on their daily run to St. Goar and Koblenz but the cold breeze is keeping most of the passengers inside this day.

Back on the B2 it is a short drive to Rüdesheim where I planned to spend the balance of the day.  Most people find this town to be a bit too touristy and I would have to agree.  You can always count on main street to be wall-to-wall with crowds and the Drosselgasse is like trying for ten yards in a cloud of dust. 

But beyond all that it does offer some interesting sights such as the Asbach Distillery, Brömersburg castle (a former medieval toll point dating back to the year 1000 and now a wine museum), and my favorite pasttime... a ride on the cable cars up to the Niederwald.

This is a good place to do your last minute shopping for Uncle Ned or whomever in the event you procrastinated throughout the trip.  Plastic is the currency of the realm if you are running low on Marks by this time.

Heading over to the entrance to the Seilbahn I notice the round trip fare on the cable cars is still DM10, so off we go.  From here the ride out over the vineyards offers a terrific view and photo opportuntity and as usual I make the most of it.

Arriving at the top of the Neiderwald it is a short walk over to the monument which towers high above and can be seen from miles away.  The observation point attracts a lot of camera bugs and today is no different.  On a clear day the view is magnificent but today there is a mixture of low clouds and an occasional sprinkle... but we work with what we have.

A visit here officially signals the end of each trip, and has for years.  It is a good place to reflect back on the past two weeks and the highlights of the trip -   meeting some of the Stammtisch crew at Urach, prosting at the Oktoberfest, some new farms, not getting lost (yeah!!) and planting the seed of the next trip if the fates prevail.

The only thing left to do now is pack up the camera, take a last ride back down, have a couple of brews, and reflect back.  For those who have never been - trying to describe what it's like might be pointless.  For those who have - no description is necessary.  'Nuff said.

Here's to next year and our meeting at the Zum Sternen!!  Prost!!!