Octoberfest 2000

Part 2 - Heidelberg

Sept. 16, 2000

We arrive at the train station in Heidelberg to cloudy skies and cool temperatures. Darling Carson just doesn't understand the proper protocol at the taxi stand and jumps line...flags down a taxi...and gets the driver to do a 360 to bump the other taxis out of line to pick us up. Bad move!!!! I inform me that I'm not getting into a taxi until it's my turn, plus the taxi drivers in line all get out of their cars, ranting and raving at this guy and taking down his license number. After we explain, to Carson, that he had caused a ruckus and probably got the taxi driver who jumped line to get into alot of trouble, he promptly walked up to one of the other drivers, who had taken down the license plate number and very loudly and sternly said, "Don't you get him into any trouble...do you understand me? Don't you get him into any trouble!" Yup...we were traveling with the Ugly American! At this point, we were happy we weren't staying at the same hotel as Carson and Michelle.

I had booked Carson and Michelle into the Goldener Hecht Hotel. What a fantastic location! Right at the foot of the Alte Brucke and only footsteps away from the famous Vetters brewery. Plus, so convenient to everything in old Heidelberg. They had a large, corner room with super views of the Neckar River...the staff spoke impeccable English...and, best of all...Carson's carcass could be easily rolled up the street to his room, after closing down Vetters! He groveled at my feet for days for setting him up at this hotel. Cost per double room, all inclusive, with breakfast was about $115.00. A great choice in Heidelberg: Hotel Goldener Hecht

Ed and I decided to splurge a little while in Heidelberg and booked Die Hirschgasse Hotel on the other side of the Neckar. It is located in a quiet neighborhood and within a 5-10 minute walk along the Neckar to the Alte Brucke. This hotel was a real find!

The Hirschgasse was a popular drinking spot for university fencing clubs, in days gone by. They would hold duels right in the Mensurstube, the informal dining room. Although not large, it is very quaint and so beautifully maintained. We had a suite with an upstairs bedroom with full bath and separate shower. The WC was separate from the bathroom, with it's own sink also. The tub had a jacuzzi...there were more towels than we would ever need...the bathrobes were soft and cuddly...I was in Heaven!

The downstairs had very comfortable leather furniture and tons of closet space abounded. Both the upstairs and downstairs had television sets...it was just like being at home and we loved it! They even put out name over the doorbell to our suite...if that isn't classy...I just don't know what is!

I had booked their Romance Package, which included Champagne Breakfast and a dinner in their formal dining room, Le Gourmet. We had hoped to have dinner tomorrow night so we could spend our first night in town, exploring all the old student taverns with Carson and Michelle, but it could only be arranged for this evening. No problem! We would spend the rest of the afternoon exploring and return for dinner later.

We walked over to meet Carson and Michelle at Vetters and spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing over beer and wine spritzers! Curiously, Carson did not order the cheese platter...what's the matter, Carson? All that cheese kicking in? Feeling a little, shall we say...bound up? Ho! Ho! Ho! Now...don't get me wrong! I like cheese just like the next person, but Carson is a walking advertisement for Velveeta...he's waaaaaay outta control! Can't you just picture it? Cheese and beer for breakfast...cheese and beer for lunch...cheese and beer for dinner. It all adds up to ugly!

We return to the Hirschgasse and change for dinner. It was sensational, to say the least!

We started with Taittinger Champagne (told you the place was classy), radishes, a variety of breads, and..."Oh the Saints be Praised"...Quark! I had heard of quark, but didn't fully realize how delectable it really is. This was fabulous...I could have skipped the rest of the meal and just eaten the quark. (Carson's cheese addiction must be rubbing off on me.) But...our next course was even better! The appetizer was an eggroll on top of rice noodles, with a sauce to die for! Again...I didn't need to go any farther...just keep bringing the quark and appetizer!

Next course was Cream of Potato Soup with Fresh Salmon Rosette. The soup was wonderful...but, I'm not a salmon lover and this stuff was raw, I think! Ed goes bonkers over the salmon. "Best I've ever had, anywhere", he raves and encourages me to try some. I take the plunge, and try a small piece that has been sitting in the hot soup and is, therefore, cooked. I must admit...pretty darned good...for salmon, that is!

Our main course is a Skewer of Free Range Chicken with Vegetables and another fantastic sauce...wish I knew what the sauces were. It had Spargel, Carrots, Fennel, etc. I sure wish I knew what the Germans do to make their vegetables so fantastic tasting!

Dessert consisted of Crepes with Sweet Quark, Lemon Sorbet, Vanilla Sauce and a Plum Confit. Very nice, although I'm not much on dessert. We had topped off our dinner with a great bottle of Rotwein and were feeling very satisfied! It was a lovely, memorable meal, but...we had some rowdy taverns to get to. A total change of pace!

We changed into jeans and contacted Carson and Michelle via our Motorola Walkie-Talkies. These little babies are simply indispensable when traveling with another couple. We found our two traveling buddies at Zum roten Ochsen.

While we had been enjoying our gourmet meal, Carson and Michelle had also eaten (they couldn't remember where, however) and Carson was in his glory! He was so overwhelmed to be back in Heidelberg, staying at a hotel just down the street from one of his favorite breweries, that he just couldn't stop celebrating his good fortune! Beer, beer, and more beer was the mandate of the evening! We closed down the Red Ox, after joining in with some singing. Lots of fun, but...lo and behold...two doors down from the Red Ox is another famous student drinking hole...Zum Zeppl's. Wow! We had thought the Red Ox was fun, but this place took the cake!

Ed and Carson immediately join in a congo line upon entering Zeppl's. Everyone was very lively...dancing and singing, etc. and, oh yes...drinking tons of beer! We finally found seats in the back room and met some more fantastic Germans! One of them was a coal miner, just as Carson had been. Carson was dubbed, "Herr Berkmann" (sp?) for the evening and we all just hit it off like we had been old, old friends. Carson and I both ordered the "bier boot"...approximately 3.2 liters of beer or something. God bless the waiter, who brought me a small dunkles instead! We laugh, sing, dance, talk and drink some more beer. Carson is still working on his boot when we leave. It's late and we're tired, so we head to the hotel. It's raining and chilly, but the walk was exhilarating!

Sept. 17, 2000

We both slept great! (Who wouldn't after all the beer?) Woke up to another very cool and rainy day. Carson called us at 10 a.m., so we clean up and are off to.....where else?....Vetters again! On our way out of the hotel, several of the other suites are open for the maids to clean. Naturally, I look inside all that I can. They are so lovely...each decorated in Laura Ashley and all different and unique. I can't decide which room I like best!

On our walk into town, we realize it's Sunday and we try to get into the cathedral for church. It's all locked up so we just head on down to Vetters. Carson and Michelle are nowhere in sight. We try the walkie-walkies, but can't get through to them. Oh well...we decide to order lunch, as we slept too late for breakfast, again. I ordered Beef Stew...a tureen of beef vegetable soup that could feed a third world nation! It was huge! I had no idea the soup would be so large, so I also ordered a Mixed Salad and a side order of Roasted Potatoes. Mistake! Everything ordered was enormous, so I ate what I could and just sent the rest back. BTW...the Beef Stew was just so-so...mixed salad was fantastic, as always...and the potatoes were just okay also.

Ed loved his Goulaschsuppe and the Liver and Onions. The place was very crowded on this Sunday morning. I finally walk down the street to the Goldener Hecht to check on our rowdy friends. In all fairness to Michelle...she is quite a lady and never once overdid it in the drinking arena...did you Michelle? :o) Carson, on the other hand, is really getting into the Olympics...he is setting new world records for the consumption of beer! Not to mention trips to the men's room...remember that midget bladder of his?

Carson and Michelle are a little late getting moving today and finally do come down to Vetters. Carson is looking mighty rough. Seems they closed down Zum Zeppl's after trying everything akin to bribery and threats to keep the place open longer. Tsk! Tsk! You'll never learn when to quit, will you Carson?

After eating, Carson heads back to the hotel to "sleep it off". He feigns back problems, but we all know better! Ha! Ha! Ed, Michelle and I head up to explore the castle. It is simply breathtaking...one of the prettiest castles I have ever seen. After taking the requisite pictures, and looking around, we head back to town. We stop into the Zum Ritter Hotel for a drink. This is lovely hotel with a terrific location in Heidelberg also. A little on the pricey side, but I loved the decor. Michelle and I ordered the Haus Cocktail...Champagne, Orange Juice, and a splash of Cointreau...very nice! We order another...what else is new?

By now, it's about 4 p.m. We walk down the Haupstrasse, enjoying all the sights. We call Carson and finally get him up and moving. We stop into the Golden Ram (?)...a very nice, rustic spot and down a few biers. This place is right on the Haupstrasse and became very, very crowded...must be a good place to eat, although we didn't eat anything here.

We walked back toward the Alte Brucke, with a stop (and drink) at the Hard Rock Cafe. It was very blase (where is my sheet that tells me what keys to use to get accents on words?...just use your imagination and picture that accent grave over the 'e'...thanks!) Michelle bought a hat and then we headed to Zeppl's for dinner. Being Sunday night, the place was very quiet. Dinner was: Rumpsteak with onions, green beans, and fried potatoes...sehr gut! A few biers and we're outta there! We're all tired and decide to make it an early evening...good move!

Back at the hotel, we try to call home using our phone card. For some reason, our phone card isn't working, so we just use the hotel's phone lines. No one is at home, so Ed...using all his provincial wisdom...says: "Hi everybody...It's Dad" and hangs up! No other message...no mention of our location...how we're feeling...how we hope the kids are all well, etc. (Sometimes it's frustrating being married to a Pollock!) We settle into our lovely living room at the Hirschgasse, just watching the Olympics and drinking a Licher Pils and Binding on occasion. Then...bedtime!

Sept. 18, 2000

I awake at 2:45 a.m. and am so thankful for the television downstairs, as I don't want to disturb Ed...I do enough of that on a daily basis! "Robin and Marion" are on t.v. in German...they still die in the end! I try calling the kids again, as it's only 8 p.m. at home. All is fine. Grant, our youngest, is all excited as he got to play alot in his latest varsity football game. The score was 40 something to 0 at halftime, so second string got to play. Final Score: Westmont 61 Vo-Tech 7 .....Yippee! (We'll celebrate with a bier or two later...a really novel idea!)

After watching more of the Olympics, I fall asleep around 7:30 a.m. only to be awakened about 9:30 a.m. by garbage trucks. Seems every town we hit on this trip had garbage day on the very day we were visiting....argh! But, at least we had time for a quick cleanup and breakfast. Breakfast was terrific...a lovely buffet of varied cold cuts, cheeses, breads, rolls, etc. and champagne, fresh squeezed juice, and coffee. Also, we had eggs cooked to order with bacon...just wonderful.

After finding Bismarck's name carved in the table next to us, we head back to our room to get ready to visit the museum to see Heidelberg Man today. Little did we know, the museum is closed on Monday, so missed it. We gather up Michelle and Carson and their bags...head to our hotel to check-out and take a taxi over to EuropCar to pick up our Mercedes Wagon!

A final word about Die Hirschgasse. This hotel was one of the loveliest we have ever stayed in. Ernest Kraft and his wife own the hotel. Ernest was so delightful in corresponding with me during the reservation process. I didn't get to meet him, but his wife introduced herself to us at dinner and she is extremely nice and lovely! The entire staff go out of their way to be helpful. No wonder Mark Twain loved his stay here! It's definitely worth the splurge: Die Hirschgasse

Now, we're at the reservation desk at EuropCar. I had ordered a Mercedes Wagon from AutoEurope and they gave us to this company. Naturally...no mercedes available. I had my choice of 2 vehicles: A Voyager Van or a Passat! I expressed my great distain at this option. The Passat was totally inadequate to hold us and our luggage, so we had no other option than to take the van. The reservationist dismissed my complaints by stating, "But, I've given you a bigger vehicle". Yeah....I'd like to give you a big #!)#!! He then proceeds to charge me 300 DM more than my contract for the mercedes, explaining this as "an adjustment for the current low ratio of DM to USD". Just wait till I get back to the States and contact AutoEurope! It's good to get the blood flowing every once in awhile!

While the van is certainly roomy, it only has 17,000 miles on it and sounds like the engine is going to fall out, when idling. It drove well enough, but didn't trust it to take it over 140...about 84 mph. We hit A5 and head to Baden-Baden. We didn't have any trouble getting into town, but ran into a little trouble finding the road that circles the town and would bring us to our destination: The Alte Laterne Hotel, right on the pedestrian zone. This is a very quaint, little hotel with a nice restaurant and bier garten. The location is very nice and the rooms were quite comfortable. Musicians were playing right in front of the hotel throughout the afternoon...it was delightful!

We start exploring the town...walked to St. Peterkirche...up to the Neue Schloss...down to the Ohs river (in reality, just an oversized creek) and decide to try to see the casino, if possible. It's not possible, as the casino is only open to sightseeing in the morning. After 2 p.m., it's only open to gamblers. Bummer! Guess we'll have to drink! We sit outside at the casino and Michelle and I order Bellini's....mmm! mmm! mmm! We order another...they were just that good! The guys are into their bier again and Ed keeps collecting coasters for his collection.

We decide to try dinner at our hotel and walk through the Europaischer Hof Hotel on our walk back. It's very nice, but a little too upscale for our "mountain man", Carson, so I was glad I didn't book rooms here. We're a little early for the kitchen at Alte Laterne. O.K., O.K....twist our arms...we'll just wait for the kitchen to open while having a few beers. The Karlsplatz beer was pretty good and finally dinner was ordered. I had Pork Medallions with Roquefort Sauce (very pungent roquefort sauce, I might add)...Potatin Gratin and a vegetable medley of Peas, Carrots, and Celeriac...veggies were scrumptious! Ed ordered their onion soup and it was really good...a slightly different version that we've had before...this soup used dried onions instead of sauteed...really unique and quite good!

Michelle and I head to our rooms to clean up. We leave the boys downstairs to polish off their biers. Ed and I have decided to try the casion tonight. Really just to see it, as it is supposed to be gorgeous...the architect was the same as the one who deisgned Versailles. Carson and Michelle decide to go their own way tonight. We would try to meet up later. We call a taxi to take us to the casino.

It cost us a mere $5.00, but we get to the cashier at the casino and find we need our passports. They're back at the hotel, so we decide to walk back to pick them up. You guessed it...it's only a 3 block walk to our hotel...what stooges to have gotten a taxi! Oh well...live and learn! We walk back to the casino and walk through. It is, indeed, quite gorgeous, but rather small compared to it's American compatriates. We don't have a clue as to what is going on...so, we go to the bar and have a drink. (The routine never changes, does it?) Finally, we get some chips...20DM only...and I hit the American Roulette table.

I'm not a big gambler and I really don't know very much about roulette, so I place one of my chips on the corner of 4 numbers...one of which is one of my children's birthdate. Well...I'll be....I won! The guy hands me a bunch of chips and I'm happy as a lark. I tell Ed..."Great...we won...let's go!" I start to walk away and the guy (is he a croupier?) yells at me that I can't take chips away from the table. Like I knew this? Anyway, he gave me some other chips or something...we head to the cashier...and, WOW! I placed a 20DM bet and got back 320DM...quite a coup for a dumb broad from PA, who doesn't like to gamble!

Ed and I try to contact Carson and Michelle, as it is now about 10 p.m. We can't get through to them so we decide to have another drink at the Kurhaus Terrace ...only inside, as it is quite cold out. We are the only people in the place...I find it hard to believe they really fill all those seats.

We then hop over to the bar at the Europaicher Hof and have a beer. It's a nice little bar and quite lively. We've had enough for the night and walk back to the Alte Laterne. We settle in to watch more of the Olympics (what a God-send to have the games on during this trip...made watching television quite entertaining!). We notice a fly in our room...the first bug we've seen since our stay in Germany. We had been amused that none of our hotels have screens on their windows...I don't know if anyplace has screens on the windows, and yet...no bugs in the rooms! (Ed has vowed to come back to Germany to start a screen company...we'll be multi-millionaires if they ever take hold!)

"Out like lights" for the night...

On to Triberg and Urach in the Black Forest...