Germany, Belgium & Luxembourg - 2001
Day 5
Ready for breakfast at 8am. Typical breakfast of meats, cheases, fruit and bread. The funny thing about the bread basket was they had hot dog buns in there for the Americans. Today I was especially looking forward to because we had no real plan. I just knew we wanted to see the coast and then touch on the Netherlands. We drove towards Oostende on the Belgian coast via the back roads. If I remember right it was only 18 miles from Brugge to the Belgian coast. We arrive early and the weather is great. Its cool however the sun is out. We walked the long boardwalk enjoying the view of the ocean on one side and the many, many condo's on the other.
Living in the Pacific NW I'm used to many quaint villages on the coast so seeing so many large buildings together along the ocean was something new for me. We walked towards the casino and then cut in towards the shopping district. Most of the vendors were just setting up their tables out front and lots of tourists were already out for a morning stroll. I bought 2 wallets at one of the stands and a few sweets at a small candy store for the kids. Oostende looked like a fun place to stay next time, a very lively city with lots to do and see. From what I read later Oostende is a major tourist destination for the English, and I can see why.
From Oostende we drove North along the coast. Unfortunately there is a dike along the road preventing you from seeing the ocean, however there were quite a few spots you could park and walk to the ocean. We drove the back roads all the way to Breskens where I had hoped to hop a ferry over to Vlissingen in the Netherlands. However there was a huge line of semi trucks wanting to do the same so we just continued towards Terneuzen via back roads. We tried to follow the water and ended up on a tiny road following the dike into a nature reserve.
The dike was still blocking the view, however it was covered with lush green grass and sheep feeding on the grass. We did see a few wind mills along the way and laughed at how flat the country really is. It was nice to see this area once, but wouldn't suggest going out of your way to visit here. I'm sure the Northern part of the Netherlands is much nicer. We walked the shopping district in Terneuzen then stopped at an outdoor cafe to have a beer. One of my favorite beers even in America is Grolsch.
Since we were in the Netherlands where Grolsch comes from I had a Grolsch, and then another. It just felt funny knowing I was actually in the Netherlands drinking a Grolsch, I don't know why. It still amazes me how small Europe really is! They also had a small store with many of the round, yellow blocks of cheese for sale. The picture of this really came out nice.
Since the morning was so cool and the afternoon had really warmed up we decided to head back to Oostende and enjoy the beach a little more.
-
- - 
They had the beach divided up into blocks that each lady seemed to "own" and she rented out beach chairs or even small wooden sheds for sitting without the wind. Enjoyed a short stroll along the surf and then headed back to Brugge. To be honost the coast was a little dissapointing. We visited quite a few towns and all seemed the same with large villa's for the wealthy and lots of condo's on the beach. Nothing really quaint or scenic about any of them. The beach was very nice however.
Once back at Brugge we had dinner at the small pub next to the Adornes called Bistro T Terrasje. Good food and a very fair price. Being Friday night we decided to find a good pub to have a few beers. We walked quite a ways until we found a square near the main train station that had about 6 pubs in a row. All the local youth seemed to be there that evening as each pub was crowded and loud, just the way I like it. There must have been 200 bikes and another 50 scooters parked in front. We found a pub we liked and sat at a small bistro type table in front of an open window. Great for people watching. We each had 6 triple Brugge's that evening which may sound like a lot. However we later discovered that a Triple Brugge is called that because it has 3 times the alcohol, or 9%. Let me tell you, the walk home along the canals was very interesting that night. The next morning I discovered a Triple Brugge glass the I apparently "forgot" to leave at the pub. A very nice Triple Brugge glass for my collection.
Day 6
Sad to be leaving Brugge and the Adornes hotel but looking forward to a big day ahead. Back in 1991 when I was in the Army a Sergeant took me and a friend from Fulda, Germany to Brussels in an Austin Mini. From Brussels we went to Charleroi to visit his relatives however from there he took us to a village located on a river with a huge citadel on top. For years I couldn't remember the name until just last year I came across the town while looking through a Belgian tourist book. The towns name was Dinant.
-
Ever since I found the name I couldn't wait to get back. Normally I focus on Germany when I travel, however since I had heard so many great things about Brugge and I really wanted to see Dinant I decided this trip I would focus on the Benelux. I'm glad I did!
Once again we took the back roads for miles driving towards Dinant from Brugge. The Belgian countryside is so nice with lots of farms and old cottages. After a few hours we came to Namur which is a very nice village itself, however because we had so much to see this day we decided to continue south to Dinant. We followed the Lesse river for about 20 miles to Dinant. The river was very green and very scenic with lots of old mansions along the shores and a few quaint villages. Dinant was just as I remembered. A small tourist town squeezed between the hillside behind and the river in front, much as Hallstatt is in Austria. We took the gondola up to the Citidale and arrived just in time for the tour. The tour was given in English and French so it took a little longer. The tour was interesting but the view was stunning. Once back down we walked the town for a little while before having a pizza and beer at Salon de Degustation on the river.
Once again the weather was perfect fall weather with the sun out and the leaves falling around you in the cool breeze. If you are ever in the South of Belgium - Dinant is a must see!!!
From my research on the net I had come by a castle very near Dinant that I wanted to see. The castle is Chateau De Veves near Celles and my goodness was it worth the stop.
-
- - 
Just in the short drive from Dinant to Celles you could really see the change in architecture from the modern to the French stone cottage. The castle is located just past a lush valley that is full of cute stone cottages. The area around Celles was really pretty and a place I hope to spend more time on the next trip. The Castle has a gate out front with an intercom button. We pushed the button and the gate opened. Once in we realized we were the only tourists there. The owner gave us a tour book to take and let us tour all on our own. The inside had been refurbished and had lots of character. The outside looks like a dream castle, with the tall spires on each corner and the brick wall surrounding the castle. Again,a very worthwhile stop.
We drove the countryside a little longer, again wishing I had planned for more time here. Very pretty, very lush and very French looking. We finally took the freeway towards Bastogne and took the back roads to Clervaux, Luxembourg. Clervaux was about 19 miles North of our destination for the evening, Vianden. Clervaux is a small forest village surrounded by deep hills featuring a Benedictine abbey on top. The town is small but worth the stop. They also have a small castle which features an exhibit called "The family of Man". We had a beer in the small town square and took a few photo's including one of a statue of a U.S. Soldier, thanking them for their sacrifice.
-
- - - - 
From here we followed the Sure river to Vianden. The road was littered with small villages and what seemed like hundreds of camping grounds along the river, mostly filled with mobile homes for the Dutch. The river was very scenic and one couldn't help imagining what was happening here 60 yrs ago during WWII. We arrived in Vianden with no reservations however I did have a list I had made of a few nice places to stay. The best hotel, called the Victor Hugo was right on the river next to the stone bridge, however they were booked. We walked up the cobble stone road towards the castle above
-
- - 
and found a nice place called La Tourelle for 2300BF. The room was on the top floor looking out over the street below. The La Tourelle was fine but next time I will make reservations at the Victor Hugo. We went downstairs to have a few beers and watched some soccer. It starting to get dark so we walk the short walk down to the river and find a very nice restaurant that hangs out over the river with a stunning view of the bridge and the castle lit up above. Here I had a very tasty steak and a few more beers. Everything from the food to the lodging in town was very inexpensive. Vianden is a small but very nice village based on both sides of the river with the stunning castle above. Vianden is probably one of the top 3 must see's in Luxembourg, Jurgen and I both agreed it was a highlight of the trip. A few more beers back at the hotel before going 11 toes up.
Day 7
Typical European breakfast in a nice dining room. A somewhat overcast, cool fall day today. We check out and then take the short drive up the cobblestone road to the castle here in Vianden. We are early, they don't open for another half hour yet the attendent says give him 10 minutes to get the cash register ready and he'll let us in. Five minutes later we had the castle all to ourselves. The tour is self guided although very well marked. The tour takes around an hour and takes you through many refurbished rooms filled with furniture from way back when. The view from the castle of the town and river below is quite nice, especially with the fall colors and the slight mist hanging among the trees. As you prepare to leave the castle there is one last arrow pointing around an outside corner. We follow the sign and find the basement of the castle, looking as if it had just been discovered yesterday. Nothing has been refurbished! Many of the old bricks lay on the ground and the pillars and ceiling look like they did a few hundred years ago. We both agreed this was the coolest part of the tour. On the way out there is a small gift shop with gifts and post cards. I bought a few post cards as well as a wooden case filled with 109 wooden blocks for building castles, made by Pfaff. Both my 4 and 7 yr old love them and as I look back it was one of those gifts you get the children that really is somewhat unique and brings back memories even for me.
As we drive out of Vianden there are quite a few spots up the hill that provide great photo opportunities of the castle and the village. Again, the countryside in Luxembourg and around Vianden was second to none. From Vianden we drove a very scenic 15 miles to the town of Diekirch. Diekirch looked like a nice place to spend more time, however we were here to see the Museum of Military History - WWII. The museum is primarily dedicated to the Battle of the Bulge in Luxembourg in the winter of 1944/1945. They focus on both the German and the American point of view. I'll quote the brochure, "special showrooms feature extensive collections of weapons, uniforms, military equipment of all kind, in addition to numerous personal soldier's belongings, photographs, documents, and maps". The museum's core piece is doubtlessly the detailed mock-up of the night time Sauer river crossing at Diekirch on January 18, 1945 by units of the 5th U.S. infantry division. The museum was easy to find, however it was located near a residential area behind a few apartments. From the road it looked very unimposing, however once in it was very much worth the stop. There happened to be a group of American WWII veterans getting a personal tour from the director at the time. I walked close by listenening to many of the men telling their wifes about their experience and recalling their time during the war. I couldnt' help but think how foolish war really is, here I am with my best friend being a German and we are both touring a museum showing pictures of what could be our grandfathers trying to kill each other.
After the tour we drove a few short miles to the town of Ettelbruck to visit the Patton Memorial Museum, however it was closed, seems its only open 1-2 days a week, so call ahead if you plan to visit. From here we drove back roads to Luxembourg city.
-
- 
The road into the city follows up a valley into the heart of the city. The old town was easy the find and easy to tour. We toured the walls of the fortress and took many pictures of the valley below as well as the wall along the city. Luxembourg was worth the stop but probably doesn't warrant much more than 1 day. From here we drove just a few kilometers south towards Hamm and the American Military Cemetery.
This was one of those sights that my limited vocabulary just can't describe. The only way I can try is to remind you of the first scene in 'Saving Private Ryan' when the grandpa is crying at the white cross in the cemetary with his children and grandchildren behind him. There was nothing but row after row of white crosses on manicured grass. There are a few monuments here but its the starkness of the cemetary that struck me. The highlight was finding that General Patton is also buried here. Apparently his wish was to be buried with his troops in Luxembourg.
Even Patton didn't warrant a monument, as he had a simple burial plot very similar to the other soldiers. The only difference being his cross was maybe 25% larger than the other crosses. From here we drove 2 kilometers more to the German military cemetary.
Their cemetary was very dark with dirty stone crosses on unkept grass with many shade trees darkening an already dark place. Another difference was that each burial plot contained the bodies of not one but two soldiars. I joked to Jurgen that this was because we killed twice as many Germans as they did Americans, he didn't seem to find this funny though. (He did actually laugh). I would put the visit to these two cemetaries as a highlight of the trip. They really put in perspective that WWII is not just something you see on The History Channel but an event that real people fought and died in.
From Hamm we drove 45 minutes to see Trier, Germany. While in Germany we walked the old town and visited the Porta Nigra.
Had a nice lunch at what else, an oudoor cafe and toured a little more of the city. Since we had both been here many times we decided to head home after 2 hrs of touring Trier. We somehow got lost on the way out and ended up driving the Hunsruckstrasse for an hour. Actually a very nice drive but not one we had planned on. Like many say, sometimes these little detours are the best parts of a trip. From there we took A62 towards Kaiserslautern and then B40 towards Kibo. When I was in the Army back in 89-92 I used to drive with my truck from Wildflecken on the old East German border to Bitburg via this A62 twice a week. So this little part of the drive was really of great interest for me (as Jurgen slept) because it brought back so many memories of my Army days. Its funny how you remember a bridge or a little field or farm house, yet some of the towns along the way I couldn't remember at all.
