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by Fern (Fkinion)
Part 1
It appears that most message board contributors are families
or men who were travelling alone. I hope my comments that pertain to individual women travelers might interest
females reading the "travel boards," and especially any of "senior citizen" age - two of us
on this trip were 75 years young.
My first two flights to Switzerland were in coach, which
made sleeping difficult and the jet lag taking some recovery time upon arrival. On the third trip, I upgraded to
business class using 40,000 Delta sky miles, and this year surprisingly accumulated 80,000 miles for a free round-trip
business class ticket. (Well, it wasn't totally free - my last 500 miles were earned by flying from Tampa to Orlando
at a cost of about $100!) Nevertheless, the rest I felt on this last trip (both going over and coming back) resulted
in no jet lag. I am semi-retired and work at a health food store, so perhaps the many supplements I take combined
with a homeopathic remedy during the flight made a difference.
On previous trips, I'd gone once with three friends and twice with family. Each time we stayed in Swiss apartments
which Idyll, Ltd. arranged for us in the Hasliberg area. This fall, two other women friends and I spent two weeks
making our home base in Meiringen after researching housing and activities without Idyll's assistance. This change
enabled us to have a more flexible schedule, along with choosing the needed apartment arrangement. I highly recommend
Idyll's service.
Using the Alpen Region website, we learned of available apartments and soon received a listing of many places in
Meiringen, Brienz, and Hasliberg. We chose Meiringen
because of the train access and the small but convenient
community. Our spacious apartment also would serve large families well because it had three bedrooms (which we
wanted); one of which had two sets of bunk beds, which would be ideal for children. It also had two bathrooms,
a washer and dryer, TV (better if you understood German), an elevator, and a telephone.
In addition, a balcony offered a view of the mountains
and waterfalls across the valley.
Although I had enjoyed staying in Swiss home
apartments, we liked having the space on one floor as opposed to some with steep upstairs bedrooms, and higher
ceilings in the bathrooms compared to one place where tall persons' heads nearly touched the ceiling. (Please don't
assume that we wanted to experience all modern conveniences in making our housing choice; for us this space was
the only one available with the separate sleeping facilities.)
And now for the specifics of our trip which began with our departing the U.S. on Wednesday, August 28, and arriving
the following morning in Zürich.
Thursday, August 29: one lady arrived from Colorado while two of us flew from Tampa. We met in Zürich, took
a train to Luzern, and then changed for one to Meiringen. After settling in and making quick grocery purchases
at the Coop, we later enjoyed dinner at the Rebstock restaurant.
Part 2
Friday, August 30: Our first day after arriving
was sunny, so we got an early start for Mürren. After taking the funicular to Grutschalp, we walked to Winteregg
where we stopped for a hazelnut pastry at the new restaurant. On the way, below the trail we noticed a new small
building with outside flooring and an enclosed fence. As we wondered about its use, out walked a small pig! How
the Swiss do take care of their animals. Arriving in Mürren we marveled at the striking view of the snowcapped
Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau - views that many message board contributors write that is one of the most memorable
anywhere in Switzerland. We continued on to Gimmelwald, took the gondola to Stechelberg, and then walked back to
Lauterbrunnen. (I'd forgotten that the downward path to Gimmelwald was a bit steep, and while normally this would
not be a problem, I'd been remiss in not getting my New Balance rainproof walking shoes thoroughly broken in.)
I realized also that instead of the numerous waterfalls I'd seen on previous early summer trips, there were not
as many in September. The "Valley of the Waterfalls" is still a favorite, however, with the lovely homes
with beautiful gardens along the way of the four-mile walk. I especially liked seeing many families sitting in
their gardens visiting - a leisure pace compared to busy cities. Because this was the first time my friends had
seen this area, we then took a train to Wengen and another to the tourist village of Grindelwald. A lady passerby,
whose home is there, had on a lovely blue shirt with edelweiss flowers; I asked where she had purchased it, and
she said she had bought it two years previously in a nearby store. She proceeded to kindly walk me to that location
where I was fortunate to find one like it for my daughter. In my journal I wrote, "she will love it,"
and she does! When we reached our apartment that evening, my tired muscles reminded me that the highest hill in
Tampa is a freeway overpass.
Saturday, August 31: The following day, we went to Interlaken to enjoy lunch at Schuhs a favorite restaurant
of many "posters." We liked eating outside and watching skydivers land in an adjoining field. Having
researched area activities on a Swiss website, there was a festival in Untersee, which is near Interlaken --- but
as we walked in the hot sun, the village didn't seem so near! We finally reached a tent filled with many people
enjoying beer and raclette while enjoying the music from a small band which was to continue playing
until 3AM. It seemed like a small festival in comparison to many, but seeing the homes along the way was worth
the walk. We decided to be more selective about trekking to small festivals when we didn't even hear any yodeling.
Part 3
Sunday, September 1: We woke to a drizzly morning, which
caused us to hesitate about our day's activities, but we decided to take a four-pass tour from the local bus station.
(For those persons staying in the Lauterbrunnen/Grindlewald area, an escorted tour is fairly expensive, whereas
you can go to Meiringen on the rail pass and for CHF 9 take the unescorted bus tour from there.) Publicity we had
read suggested not taking this tour unless the weather was clear; however, we thought it might clear enough to
make it worthwhile. The passes cover the Grimsel, Nafenen, Gotthard, and Susten. A bit of excitement occurred when
our driver couldn't get the windshield to clear when leaving the first pass - not something to experience when
the fog is heavy and the roads are so narrow. After a short delay, the windshield wipers began to work again, and
we proceeded to the next village where we would change to another bus. This delay, however, threw the bus schedule
off so we were not going to link up with the next connection. Fortunately for cell phones, the drivers communicated
and we were able to continue on our way.
Watching cyclists going up the steep passes was interesting
when their bicycles were loaded with so much gear on the front and back. At our next rest stop a group of six young
men from a bike club in England, whom we had passed, arrived and enjoyed carbohydrate loading with huge plates
of French fries before starting back on the road. At the Gotthard pass is a carriage museum, and a Swiss resident
bus passenger suggested that instead of going inside, we go to the back of the building where there happened to
be a carriage with six horses and a groomsman waiting to take persons on the Gotthard Andermatt-Airolo trip.
The cost is CHF 597 per person! We were thrilled to have the rare opportunity to see this and get photos. In spite
of the fog, we enjoyed meeting many interesting people and seeing the valleys, homes, and animals along the way.
Monday, September 2: While my friends spent a memorable day in Ballenberg (which I had seen before), I had quite
a shopping list for family and friends so enjoyed some leisure time in familiar Meiringen shops. On an
earlier trip, a frequent Idyll traveler told us about a small, serrated Victorinox knife, one which is great for
slicing any food and never needs sharpening. I always visit one of the hardware stores to purchase several for
gifts (of course placing them in the checked luggage).
Tuesday, September 3: This was a rainy day, which saw one friend off to visit a monastery east of Luzern where
she would see the Black Madonna statue. My other friend and I chose to test our rain suits and waterproof shoes
by walking around Interlaken and Brienz; I found myself purposely stepping into every water puddle to test the
shoes. (On my last trip I caught a very bad cold from walking in tennis shoes in a downpour.) (A nice linen shop
in Interlaken is Frutinger Heimtextil located a few blocks from Interlaken Ost.) When we returned to Meiringen
the weather had improved, and during a walk we discovered an abandoned castle a few blocks from our apartment.
In Meiringen also is a most interesting Michael's Church with
excavations, which one can explore beneath the upstairs church. Nearby also is a new museum that is worth seeing.
Oh yes, Greg (OrangeSun2002) called to make meeting arrangements for Friday to hike the Grandmother's Walk.
Part 4
Wednesday, September 4: We had reservations on the Train du chcolat Schokoladezug Chocolate, which left from Montreux to Gruyeres and Broc at 09:34.
This meant departing at 0550 from Meiringen, changing trains in Interlaken, Bern, and Lausanne in order to meet
the Montreux train. (Reservations are needed for the Wednesday only tour, and there was a small cost.) The scenery
from Bern to Lausanne was beautiful with the many vineyards, French-style architecture, and farms along the way.
From Montreux we boarded the Chocolate train for Gruyere where we first toured the La Maison du Gruyere (cheese
factory).
I much prefer observing the personal involvement of
Hasliberg farmers making cheese in comparison to witnessing the commercial production. We then were bussed to the
Chateau de Gruyere. Returning to the train, we next went to Broc Fabrique to visit the Cailler-Nestle factory.
The sweet smell of chocolate
filled the air as we walked the short distance from
the train to the factory! Sampling many chocolate bars was a real treat-and then entering the sales store we tried
to recall which tasted the best. "A kid in a candy store" where prices were inexpensive made this a memorable
visit. One "boarder" who had visited there recently wrote, "she wanted this to be her last wish."
On the Chocolate train we had the good fortune to meet a couple from Ohio,
the man being the head of the Nestle Human Resources
office who gave us many interesting bits of information about the world's largest food company. (No, Nestle didn't
buy out Hershey after all.) Persons who wish to visit only the Cailler-Nestle chocolate factory may call 026/921
51 51; I believe individual access is available weekdays except for Monday mornings.
Thursday, September 5: we had planned to go to Kandersteg but the sunny day caused us to make a rapid change of
plans for Zermatt instead. I know most "boarders" stay in that community for several days, but after
having several cloudy days, we enjoyed the nice weather to visit there even for just a few hours. What a wonderful
photo opportunity this was, from the Matterhorn,
to the Ulrich Inderbiner statue honoring his climbing
guide activity at the age of 90 (he is now 102).
Also interesting was talking with an 85-year old English speaking Swiss who now lives in an old folks home because her 100-year old home is no longer livable, and visiting the churches with graveyard headstones relating to climbing accidents.
Friday, September 6: After reading humorous trip reports
written by OrangeSun2002 (Greg), I learned that he was going to be in the area during this same
time period. What a nice gentleman, with such wit and kindness! He met us in Wengen where we took the gondola through
the fog to Mannlichen. We then bundled up warmly to enjoy the Grandmother's Walk. Greg filed a report on this soon
after his return.
Saturday, September 7: Greg joined a friend and me for a festival in nearby Magisalp which included lots of food,
cheese booths, bell ringers, alpen horns, men's choral group, and costumed dancers. To climax the activities were
the decorated cows coming down from the upper pastures.
As we took pictures of them coming into the festival
area, we realized their huge size, and concentrated more on staying out of their way than focusing our cameras.
Greg and I walked down the "Dwarf Trail" to Bidmi then took the gondola to Reuti and on to Meiringen.
He also wrote about this festival in his report.
The big event in Meiringen that particular weekend was the
bell ringer's festival. There are 150 such clubs throughout Switzerland and every three years they meet in a different
town. Between the bell ringing, the cracking whips, the parade, and the fun loving participants, the town was alive
night and day!
Many of the bells weighed over 25 pounds with some men
carrying two bells hung from a yoke. We asked the cost of some bells at the vendor markets and they were CHF 600.
Many participants were older men (a relative term) and women, with young children in several groups as well. On
Saturday evening some groups carried candle-lit paper boxes on poles with figures on the four sides; these were
to ward off the evil spirits. I learned that between Christmas and New Years the individual towns have bell-ringing
parades to give thanks for a good year.
Part 6
Sunday, September 8: I first attended the Michael's church
service, where I especially enjoyed the music because the acoustics made for a beautiful spiritual experience.
There were about 40 men and women in the choir and the same number in the congregation. I was unfamiliar with the
state-supported churches so was confused that the only collection process was with the box hung from the door at
the back of the sanctuary. Refreshments were served outside following the service.
I then proceeded to the center of town to watch the
primary parade that lasted five hours. The groups walked from both directions on the main street, ending up in
a field away from the spectators where many of them still continued their bell ringing. All of this made for great
photographs showing not only the various bells, but many different costumes as well. Earplugs were a must for spectators
and participants! (My other friends' activities included one who took a Luzern boat trip and boarded a train for
Italy before returning back to Meiringen; the other lady spent the day visiting Luzern museums.)
Monday, September 9: This was a cloudy day, so we chose to visit the Glasi Hergiswil, located
in a community near Luzern and a pleasant train ride from Meiringen.
It is always interesting to watch the glass blowers and then shop in the "seconds" store across the street. At the suggestion of the store's employees, we had lunch at the nearby Gasthof Adler.
Tuesday, September 10: Weather was rainy,
so I spent the day mostly reading except for a nice lunch at the Victoria Restaurant. My friends went to Luzern
to visit the museums, and one of them proceeded back to the U.S.
Wednesday, September 11: The weather was sunny, so we went to Beatenberg where we could view the mountains from
a different area. The tall holly trees growing by the funicular tracks were far different than the usual bushes
we grow in our country. Returning to Interlaken, we took a bus to Iseltwald and had lunch at the Strand Hotel by
the lake. We then took the boat to Brienz where we boarded the train to Meiringen.
That evening involved the task of packing for our trip to Munich the following day. In spite of reading Rick Steves'
suggestion for carrying only one bag, when I packed before leaving Tampa I'd tried fitting my clothing, other needed
items and a large packet of maps and related notes for my friends' reference into a 22" suitcase. When my
granddaughter sat on it to close it, we determined I had better also take a smaller piece as well. Thus, when repacking
in Meiringen I realized that adding my purchases resulted in more weight than was comfortable carrying home. I'd
learned that the cost of mailing packages on to the U.S. was quite expensive, and sending extra luggage ahead by
train to our next destination (which was to Germany) had to be sent about a week ahead of our departure. This meant,
therefore, that I had to manage my luggage for a quick change of trains in Luzern and Zürich.
Part 7
Thursday, September 12: After an early departure from Meiringen we changed trains in Luzern. Connecting for Zürich was fairly uneventful; however, there we had only eight minutes to go down the escalator, walk a long distance, and then up the stairs to our next train to Munich. My friend traveled with only one small bag so was quickly on the train and standing in the doorway of the reserved car. When I arrived there, she asked that I hand her my smaller bag, which I did, but at that moment the train began to pull out of the station. One thought came to mind - an old song "Throw Momma From the Train" and as I quickly realized getting my luggage and myself on was too great a risk, my friend went on and spent a pleasant afternoon in Munich. I, meanwhile, reserved a seat on a later train and thus spent a few extra dollars but enjoyed watching the diversity of people in the bahnhof terminal.
(A lady I met on the next train worked in Appenzell as a family counselor and lived in St Gallen. Whereas my impression from the Swiss farm area families was one of strong marriages, she shared with me that the country's divorce rate is quite high - especially when the women are from another country.)
In Munich we had reservations at the Hotel Alba that is
just across from the bahnhof. Rooms are small but clean and the cost was $73 (that included breakfast). A restaurant
where we had a light supper that evening was only about a block from our hotel; it was in the Eden-Hotel-Wolff.
The service, food, low cost, and quiet atmosphere marked it as one of the highlights of our trip.
Friday, September 13: We had reserved seats for the Romantic Road bus trip from Munich to Frankfurt; cost for seniors
- 33.50 Euro. The bus departs at 9AM from the bahnhof, and took us through Dinkelsbühl and Rothenburg with
about an hour in each of these villages.
Seeing the Tilman Riemenschneider wood altar carvings
in several of the churches was a priority given the short amount of time we had. We arrived in Frankfurt about
5:30PM. A friend picked me up to go to her home in Hofheim for a couple of days before returning to the U.S.
Part 8
Saturday, September 14: Hofheim is a 600-year
old community that was bustling with activity. My friend and I, together with her two small children, made a quick
shopping trip for fresh vegetables at a street market. Another highlight we enjoyed in the afternoon was going
to a nearby orchard to pick apples-an advantage of going to Europe in the fall. I regret not having taken my camera
because the small trees were loaded with the largest, most beautiful red and green apples I have ever seen. We
made applesauce, fried apples, and cheddar apple pie.
Sunday, September 15: Driving back into the community, we walked up into a nearby forest to an old church and on
to a rustic restaurant for lunch. The location also has a lookout tower which people enjoy climbing up to see the
view of Frankfurt and the surrounding area. My friend's husband is a Lufthansa pilot, and I appreciated hearing
of that airline's success in comparison to several of those in the United States, which haven't fared so well.
Monday, September 16: I returned to Tampa, changing planes in Atlanta. The security procedures in Frankfurt were
the most intense of any airport I've experienced. We not only were screened though an initial checkpoint but also
when entering the Delta flight area. Regardless of the extra travel to Germany after leaving Switzerland, visiting
with friends and learning more of their lifestyle was a meaningful way to end my trip.
Summary observations:
I will reduce my packing for future trips - something many persons mention repeatedly - using more Cool Max fabrics,
and putting travel information on a disc that I can access after arriving in Europe. Also, Travel Smith has a multipocketed
vest for women which will make it easier when accessing cash, tickets, train schedules, etc. Using my backpack
for this purpose was inconvenient.
Although train and bus schedule books are located in the apartments, asking employees at the bahnhof for alternate
trip suggestions and a printed itinerary will lend convenience and options.
Safety for women traveling alone in the Berner Oberland area was never a problem. I often walked into the main
area of Meiringen at night to observe the bell ringers; and going on the trains alone perfectly safe. Another friend
who hiked with another "boarder" for a couple of days said she would return and never feel concerned
about hiking alone.
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