Part 2


July 12

Arrived in Locarno after a hair raising drive over switchback roads where 30 feet to your right and 30 feet to your left you see cars going in the opposite direction on the same road you are on. That makes for mighty sharp turns on steep grades and so narrow that there was no room for cars behind me to pass. I clutched the wheel until my fingers were cramped. I hate heights (so why did I go to Switzerland?) There were cliffs with hundreds of feet drop offs and the guardrails were pieces of rope. I suppose ropes were to tell you where the death fall was if you got too close to the edge. We came over Simpleton Pass that was suggested by B/W host, and if that were the best road I would dread driving the road he told me had too many switchbacks. Never, ever, would I drive this road again! Through most of the drive I never exceeded 30 MPH and on most of the curves I was at 6 to 10 MPH. I frequently pulled into any space on the side of the road to let cars behind me race past. I didn’t know people had so many fingers, but I got them all. Even bicyclists were passing me. Cars and bicycles were on my bumper honking their horns and blinking their lights to let them pass. I was so hot and sweaty I splashed aftershave lotion on my shirt to keep the flies away.

After that ride I was seriously tempted to turn in the car and take trains. (The luggage was what made me think twice)

We checked into the “Pestalozzi” Hotel in the center of the city and only 2 blocks from Lake Maggiore. The city is noisy, busy, congested and hot.

The hotel is strangely arranged. The reception is on the 3rd floor and rooms on the 5th to 7th floor. It had an elevator but no A/C or fan. The room was clean but very small; we decided immediately to stay only one night. If I had a keg of beer I could have felt a little happier.

In Locarno you get your sleep between 3AM and 4AM. At all other times there is hammering, grinding, drilling, pounding, screeching, wailing sirens, shouting, disco music, and assorted unidentified noise.

To me Lake Maggiore was not worth the drive. We decided to drive on to Lugano the next day and if that is no better we will drive North to Chur (pronounced COOR by the Swiss). I concluded that I don’t enjoy crowded big cities and want to go back to the countryside.

To top off our stay in Pestalozzi, there was a disco club on the first floor so until 2 AM you heard thumping, vibrating, ear piercing drums and the room did not cool off even after a rain. The humidity was as bad as Florida.

July 13

Must have had too much to drink last night, as I can’t find my notes on July 13. I know we checked into the B/W Belleview du Lac which is located on the Lake. It had good parking that you could enter from the main road going along Lake Lugano. The room had a large balcony with a view of the lake. We enjoyed the A/C and a good nights sleep. We arose early for a buffet breakfast and decided to drive to Lake Como. We drove along the west shoreline of Lake Lugano and after a few direction stops found the shoreline of Lake Como which was a pleasant scenic drive on the way back to the Hotel by way of the east shoreline of Lake Lugano and through Morcote. It is a noted small village as is many of the villages along the lake. It took us a full morning up to 1 PM to return.

In this drive we constantly found ourselves crossing the border into Italy as we did on our drive to Locarno. Not much of a check in Italy but did have to stop each time we entered Switzerland for a fast check of our passports.

July 14

We took an almost full day boat ride on Lake Lugano. Came close to going into France by one port stop. I do not ever want to go to France again; Thank you! So it was no disappointment.

At this point we were ahead of our schedule that I had planned, by a week, but we have seen what we planned to see thus far. We decided to head North to Chur.

July 15

Left Lugano 9AM and arrived Chur about 10:30. I found I over estimated the time it takes to get around Switzerland.

Again I was told it was a throughway and easy traveling. What it really is – is switchback, narrow mountain roads with steep fall offs. I let traffic pass at every opportunity. I wish the girl who told me that was an easy road were with me that night to wash my underwear.

I took the chance and checked in at another Ibis. It was a short distance off Route 13. The room was a fair size and very clean. There was a shower but no tub, which was fine with me as tubs are too deep and it is hard for me to climb in and out even to shower. The room had no A/C and neither did any other hotel in area.

We took the afternoon to drive to Maienfeld, Called “Heidi land” which I recommend seeing. It is where the fairytale book Heidi was written and they have built the location around the theme of the book. You can visit the cottage of her grandfather and her friend Peter’s house. They are equipped with rooms that have the furniture and living conditions as portrayed in the novel.

It is high up in the mountains and I can recommend you take the trip. I could not make the 15-minute narrow rock strewn path to the cottage but Lorraine took the camera and I enjoyed seeing the sights from photos she took of the Heidi museum. And, oh yes, there was a souvenir shop where she bought the novel and magnets with Heidi, grandfather and peter embossed on them.

The visit brought back memories of my Dad reading the story to me about 70 years ago. What a memory, huh?

I stayed at the hotel at the beginning of the path that leads to the cottage and had a nice lunch. We anticipated staying at the Hotel Heidi but the room available was ultra small with 2 twin beds and no space around them and with no A/C and one small window and no breeze. We ate outdoors with a fantastic view of the distant mountains and a cool breeze wafting through that blew everything off the table. The lunch was substantial and I had a large beer (maybe two) while Lorraine was away.

Upon return to Chur & hotel I saw the sign to Davos and had read something about it being a charming village so I made a diversion to go there and at about 10 miles I started to hit switchbacks. No more of those for me, so as soon as I could turn around we turned and arrived back at hotel in time for dinner.

I read my Fommer and Fodor books to plan the next day’s activities, so stay tuned if you’re not asleep by now.

My kingdom for A/C or even a fan. I could not find a store to buy a fan, which I would have done, anticipating other cities and hotels that might be without A/C. I now appreciate A/C and water so much more than I did prior to Europe. Believe it or not, I was getting very tired ordering beer and wine. And, try to find a bar that knows what a Manhattan is.

July 16

Woke up in Chur. Decided to go to Appenzel which Fodor claimed was the beauty part of Switzerland. It took about an hour to get to the region of Appenzel and we started toward the town itself. When the road started climbing and the switchbacks became more frequent I found a driveway and came back down to the highway. I missed many recommended villages due to switchbacks. Guess there is no other way to get to the top of the mountain.

Since we had time on our hands we decided to drive to Vaduz in Liechtenstein for our intended visit the next day. I wanted to get some of the famous stamps that Liechtenstein is noted for, and a special kind of chocolates, and have our passports stamped within that country.

(We stopped at the tourist bureau and found that they would stamp our passport. (Cost $1.50) Then we found a store that sold stamps and to save returning the next day we bought our stamps and chocolates that day. Cost about $7.00 for about 10 different postage stamps. Not as colorful as the special editions but sufficient to have a souvenir for my display cabinet at home.

We took a few side roads on our return to Chur, as car was A/C and the hotel room was not. We stopped at the castle on the hill and took photos - picked up a light lunch, a small bag of McDonald French fries (15 to 20 fries) and an ice tea. ($9.50)

A hard roll with a thin see through slice of salami $4.00. Swiss do not pile on meat in their sandwiches. A piece of lettuce, a sliced thin piece of meat and that is it. But, their rolls are to die for. They must have a very high minimum wage for residents to afford to eat, and pay $7.00 a gallon for gas. Guess that is why so many ride bicycles.

Back to hotel by 2 PM to plan next day trip. We decided to go into Austria to visit Innsbruck and Salzburg and perhaps Vienna.

We had seen all we wanted to see in Switzerland except the Rhine falls in Schaffhausen that we could see on our way back to Zurich for our flight home on the 30th.

July 17

From Chur Route 13 to Feldkirch (E60) (A14) to Bludenz – Arlberg tunnel – Pergen tunnel – (A12) toward Innsbruck A12 to Hall in Tyrol – A12 to Salzburg.

Destination Innsbruck & B/W Alder. (Advertised as having A/C) We wound our way through the city stopping every few blocks for directions through a congested town. We arrived at hotel about 1:30 and no A/C rooms were available and there was no parking at hotel or the streets, so we headed east to “Hall in Tyrol”. I recalled we had stayed at the Maria Teresa Hotel around 1999 so when I saw a sign pointing to it I returned to old stomping grounds.



Coincidentally we were assigned the same room with a balcony overlooking farmland and chalets, with a beautiful mountain background. Rooms are exceptionally clean, but again a bathtub that you need a ladder to get in and out. A cool breeze wafted across the balcony into the room accompanied by the scent of cow manure. It was OK during the day but overpowering when trying to sleep. We finally had to shut the balcony door and cut off the cool breeze. It's typical of Dairy air. (Ain’t there always a sacrifice in life?)

I would recommend this hotel as it is very homey “and the staff is nice.” It has a large back yard designed for children. They have a playground with toys, slides and swings and a playhouse. There is a petting zoo with ponies, goats, chickens, rabbits, and caged monkeys.

The restaurant is so good that the parking lot (a good size) is full most of the day with patrons coming for the food, atmosphere and fresh air. (Spiced with cow scents).

We awoke to a nice breakfast included in the price of the room (88 Euros). The lowest price room thus far. But now we are in Austria, not Switzerland. Now we are spending Euros, not CHF.

I used an ATM machine for the first time and was amazed at how easy it is to use. I was hesitant when I saw my credit card disappear into the machine. It was my lifeline. I also called back to the states to have my credit limit increased. I was concerned I was meeting the limit that I thought would be sufficient when I left USA.

Tomorrow Salzburg. This time I want to visit the fortress that overlooks the city and stands out as you enter the city; Spectacular! Another must see!

July 18

Congratulate me! Today I drove the car up to 65MPH. This from a man who was ticketed for doing 86 in Georgia. Looking forward to no switchbacks on A12 from Innsbruck to Salzburg thrilled me. About 70 miles out of Innsbruck A12 was closed for repair and detoured up winding back roads with switchbacks for 20 miles. It actually should have been 10 miles but they neglected to show where the detour ended and how to get back to A12. We finally stopped high up in the mountains to get directions and were told to go back down and find a sign to Wattens. Why hadn’t we seen that sign on the way up the mountain? Cause there wasn’t one. We took a chance and took a small road in the direction I assumed A12 to be. About 10 miles later we found A12 and were on our way again.

I was being cursed by switchbacks and deep tubs.

We found another B/W in Salzburg not too far and a short bus ride to the center of town. It was two B/W joined as one with different names. (Unusual)

It was difficult to find but had parking in the rear of the hotel and we were lucky to get a room with A/C. We parked on the sidewalk to avoid being run over by buses to unload our luggage. Whoever has the bus concession has 1/2 of the road marked, as a bus lane so now instead of cars pushing me it is 60’ long bus. They are hinged in the middle to give more seating.

This staff was curt which we had not experienced so far. For $200 a night one could expect more courtesy. They smile but let you know you are annoying them when you ask how to get the bus to the fortress. I would not drive for fear of never finding the Hotel again and my luggage is on the 6th floor of the Hotel Stieglbrau.

Another strange thing are the faucets we encountered. We did not find two the same since our arrival in Switzerland. You must find the combination or you scald or freeze yourself in the shower.

Plan for tomorrow is to spend the day in the square in town and visit the fortress that I have seen from afar many times but never took the time to visit it. Perhaps we will go to the Marionette show also.

July 19

Early breakfast and packing. Not to leave the hotel, but for some reason we are being moved from Room 68 to 66 right next door. The only thing I can think of to explain the move is that 68 was larger and they thought if we went into room 66 the first night we might not stay 2 nights. Actually, the A/C in the smaller room was much cooler so I liked it better.

We spent the day in town and took the cable car up to the fortress. Once in the fortress I found a bench in the shade. The stairs into the fortress were steep, narrow and many, and my knees would not take the cobblestone walkways within the castle. Also my fear of heights even kept me away from the walls that looked straight down. I did get close enough to take some photos of surrounding countryside and the river below from which the knights collected tolls. Lorraine went through most of the fortress but said it would have been impossible for me to have made the stairs and passages and that even she got lost in trying to find her way back to where I was sitting.



How the knights ever got up to the fortress is beyond me.

We summoned our courage and took the bus both ways into town and it was much easier than driving.

While in the square we ate at the Café Tomaslli in the Alter market. They specialize in desserts, although I saw many having sandwiches. Horse and carriage rides originate in the square. Artists are throughout the square including musicians and marionette performers. This morning a girl was playing a harp and a young man strumming a guitar. Before we left at about 3 PM (Lorraine shopped most of the day) a 3 or 4 piece group was starting to perform.

It was much too hot to stay any longer.

We got back on the bus and found the hotel. (Sometimes I amaze myself).

July 20

This Salzburg B/W I would recommend; - only beware of the one receptionist who was probably a child during WW Two, (“the big one”) You ask a question; she smiles, and gives you a very fast answer and then turns and ignores you.

I asked how to get to route A1 and she quickly told me of 2 lefts, and 3 right turns and then, as I tried to clarify she turned and became very busy rearranging papers. I assumed I was entitled to only one question. She was very curt and abrupt.

The restaurant had very good and plentiful food. The waiters were very pleasant once you could get their attention. They had a way of being 3 feet from you and never looking at you. When they wanted they would get to you and then be very pleasant. I must be an impatient individual.

Left Salzburg 9:30 AM and easily found A1 to Vienna. I was warned that we required a throughway pass or be heavily fined. At the next gas station we purchased a pass for 7.60 euros. We made excellent time in spite of miles and miles of construction.

We arrived in Vienna about noon passing the Schooenberg Palace that we recognized from our previous visits to Vienna. From there it took us 1 1/2 hour to find the B/W Am Park Ring. We saw signs to other of the 4 B/W, but none said: ”Am Park Ring”. We went down so many one-way streets in the wrong direction with stares that we knowingly meant “Are you crazy”?

We parked in a bus stop with people shouting and pointing for us to “move out.”

Parking, even for a few minutes, may result in WW Three. Finally just to get out of traffic I pulled into a driveway under construction and found we were at the hotel and had passed it at least 3 times. Only a block from the hotel we had asked directions and told we were 3 miles from it. Guess I better brush up on my German.

The hotel is also under construction for floors 1 through 7. We were put on the 11th floor; then the bellhop showed us the way to the garage under the hotel. We spent 20 minutes riding up and down the elevator looking for reception and found out the elevator was a construction elevator that did not go to the lobby or 11th floor. One poor workman trying to get on the elevator with equipment saw us open the elevator door 3 times in 10 minutes.



We finally met him coming down the stairs (guess he gave up on us ever getting off) when we went back down to the garage to start over. It was not funny as it was a hot, sticky, rickety old elevator but we could not stop laughing. We might never get back to our room and luggage.

Hey, traveling with me is no fun, but it is an experience you’ll not forget.

After unpacking our luggage and a shower to wipe off the construction dust we walked to St. Stevens Cathedral and the square and had lunch. Upon our return to the hotel about 4:30 we went to the garage to get remaining items from the car. We decided this time to walk out of the garage and walk around the hotel to get to the entrance. We stayed away from the garage until it was time to start back to Zurich and then took a one-way street (the wrong direction again)[Only a block] to get to entrance versus chancing finding the hotel again with the one-way streets.

July 21

Dear Diary:

The camcorder got a lot of use today. We spent the day in the square in Vienna taking movies of mimes, marionettes, and artists and inside the St. Stevens Cathedral and two palaces. Not only were the churches beautiful but also they were cool and had pews where I could sit down. My knees were aching and the Tylenol and celebrex helped but after 2 hours of walking they did not eliminate the pain. Tough getting old but the alternative is worse.

I had seen some of the sights previously when we took the Danube cruise in (whenever?) such as the excavation at the Hofburg Palace entrance where roman ruins have been exposed under the street. There is a large section about 6 feet down that shows the walls of a building and the water main that ran through the city.

We had apple struddle and beer for lunch since the breakfast at the hotel was sufficient to last until dinner. We had dinner at the hotel for the second night and it was again fantastic. The chef at the hotel is considered one of the best in Europe and he did his best to add to my Girth. (Bulk). The restaurant has a view that looks out over Vienna and the dinner was surprisingly reasonable; less than many we have had. The waitress was a young Philippine lady, cute as a button, who spoke excellent English and was going to school studying hotel management. She agreed to give me a free bottle of Champagne when she became the manager. I marvel at the number of young persons from foreign countries who are living alone in Switzerland and Austria and probably the rest of Europe. I can’t picture my agreeing for my children, at that young age living alone in a foreign country. The world is changing since my generation.

Anyhow, after dinner I hobbled back to the crowded square to enjoy the nighttime activity. It is then that the crowds appear and have their pastry and coffee in outdoor cafes. There is music, laughter and gaiety and a sense of unwinding.

The path back to the hotel was not well lit.

(After 3 glasses of wine at dinner).

We returned to the hotel just prior to darkness. What a joy to return to an A/C room from the hot humid weather we experienced through this full journey.

I may gripe about Florida (and everything else) but at least there is A/C in stores, homes, cars, and malls. We are prepared for hot temperatures, whereas on this trip I had to search out hotels that even had a fan. I found that A/C comes at a high price.

Since the hotel is being renovated, they reduced the rooms to 175 euros versus the normal 230 euros. For the convenience and quality it is a bargain compared to other hotels we were in. So, I can highly recommend the B/W Am Park ring hotel in Vienna, if you can find it.

July 22

Last full day I’ll ever be in Vienna. I recall I said the same back in 20?? But at my age now, - I am certain that I am correct this time.

I awoke at 2 AM fully rested as I had a long nap yesterday. I had no trouble sleeping on this trip and was told it was the altitude. After all, the altitude in Florida is 3 feet.

I imagine anyone reading this report has had no trouble dozing off either.

But for those who stuck with me this far I will award you a certificate, by email, for “endurance” Email me @ spinmiller@aol.com.

This AM we returned to St. Stevens square (plaza) and I sat on a cool bench and watched the tours go by. Tours are convenient but also very structured. You take the chance that if there are 30 on the tour, one will have a cold, and by day 10 all will have a cold. I’m not one who must have breakfast at 6 AM and meet in the lobby at 8AM; board a bus at 8:05 AM, etc. I enjoy just sitting and people watching in St Steven’s plaza. (With an occasional beer in hand.)

A novel car we saw on street in Vienna...


However when I have to move our 5 pieces of luggage (or more) and drive for 5 hours and be lost for 2 hours and spend 2 hours a day planning the route for the next day, I can appreciate the tour concept.

We left the plaza about noon and hobbled back to the hotel. I felt as if I were walking on my knees. I bought a can of beer on the return and fell into bed by 12:30. I turned on the TV to watch CNN to watch the same news I’ve seen 60 times in 10 days. I calculated 7 hours of every 10 is devoted to Africa and it’s problems: crime, poverty, aids, starvation, crooked politicians, mineral wealth, and after 10 days and 7 hours a day I started listening to foreign channels even though I did not understand the language.

Reception gave me directions on how to get back to Route A1 to Salzburg the next day. There are a couple of tricky turns with comments that even the Viennese do not drive in the city but take public transportation. There are too many one-way streets so that going around the block may entail a one-mile drive.

I finally figured out the remote to TV, To get to Channel 22. You press the TV button. Then press 2 twice, and then 2. To change to channel 26, press 2 twice and then 6 and with luck you will get channel 26 CNN. In the next city CNN could be Ch 30; 37; 42; Take a guess and keep pressing buttons. When you hear English, you are there.

July 23

I returned to Vienna to enjoy the activity in St. Stevens’s plaza especially the nightlife, the strollers, artists, musicians, the tenors, the mimes and the gaiety in the cafes at night. There was still that activity but not what I had returned to again experience. Naturally the characters had changed but I was looking for what I had experienced and enjoyed several years ago. The lesson; you can’t relive your past so enjoy it as it happens.

What a joy; we made 3 turns and were on a road that led to route A1 and back to Salzburg. It was Sunday and traffic was sparse for over 2 hours. We found Route A1 to Munich without incident about 11 AM and felt we should be in Munich by Noon – wrong! 18 miles from Munich we were in a parking lot. It was stop and start for 12 miles. Then the light on the dash of the Mercedes said; “Shut off engine.’ We went into PANIC MODE!

The manual was in German. We nursed the car for 2 miles stopping frequently on the side of the road to cool the engine that I thought might be over heated. Fortunately we found a gas station.

There was a truck driver cleaning his cab and I appealed to him to advise me what could be wrong. He immediately dropped what he was doing and came to the car and pulled the lever to open the hood. However he could not find the latch under the hood to open it. He actually lay on the ground to look where the lever might be. This was beyond the call of duty. He checked the water, the oil, and said, “All is normal, keep going. ”What a relief”; we did keep going and the warning did not appear again. This was encouraging as I was uncertain that I should have taken the car outside of Switzerland. This man made up for all of the curt and impolite people we had experienced. Will not forget this man or this experience.

B/W finds the best hiding places for their A/C hotels. After 1 1/2 hours and many stops for directions we found the Hotel Erb 12 miles on the outskirts of Munich in Parsdorf.

It was tucked on a side street with no signs to identify it. This was the second hotel we found by pure luck.

The hotel was being renovated and A/C rooms had recently been painted and the paint odor was stifling. But it appears we are the first to use the room. Everything including bedding looked brand new, ultra clean and spacious. Remember if you go to this hotel press 1 in the elevator to go to the second floor. [Europe elevators intrigue me. You never can predict how to get to the floor you want..] The free parking lot was empty but by 6PM there were few spaces available. The A/C was sufficient but could not be set lower than 20C. I would recommend this hotel if you can find it and don’t mind a 1 1/2 hour search. (1/2 hour if you speak German.)

Signs in Switzerland, Austria and Germany leave much to be desired. A sign will indicate to go straight ahead and then you hit a V in the road and is? right or left considered straight ahead? The signs lead you down a golden path and then dump you. Oh I wish I spoke German.

The staff at the hotel was very nice. They struggle with English but with a map and sign language I get the general direction to get to the train station to take the train into Munich the next day.

For dinner we had Corden blue. Normally I think of this as a sandwich but this was breaded ham and cheese and very tasty and filling.

“Early to bed and early to rise” and I’m still tired.

July 24

Get out the medals! We took the train into Munich. Finding the station about 1 mile from the hotel only took 45 minutes. The train station in Grub was down a dirt road with no signs pointing to the station because there isn't any station. There is a platform. We passed it several times and drove perhaps 15 miles in both direction before I suspected that if I saw a RR track the station must be close by. That is how we found the dirt road. It was next to the RR track. [“We passed it several times but never saw it” __-- became a favorite phrase on our trip.]

There was no sign authorizing parking next to the tracks but a kind woman told us it was permissible. There was no person from which to buy a ticket and we were told there is a big fine if you board a train without a ticket, I grabbed the first person passing by and asked what to do. There is a small machine where you push buttons as to a day ticket or a week or ten day ticket and if it is for one or two persons. Then you enter a paper Euro into a slot and pray it is not chewed up. After a few seconds out pops a ticket at the bottom accompanied by your change. I would never have figured this out without help.

The cost was 11.50 Euros for the full day. I don’t know why you buy a ticket because no on ever asked to see it on the way to Munich center or on the return. I felt so proud of myself that we got to the correct stop and found the Martinplatz and returned back to the hotel in one piece about 5 PM.

We went to the Hofbrauhaus House and had a great lunch; listened to the Ump pa music and I drank huge steins of beer. [Lorraine shopped. What else is new?] I now have about 8 hours of camcorder disks and close to 200 still photos.

I contemplated riding the train to the end of the line in both directions [after all I paid for a full days ride] but was too tired to fulfill that dream.

In the Platz there was a pianist playing a grand piano who was extremely talented. He was not reading music but played several long pieces. I listened until he closed up. People voluntarily drop coins or bills in a box beside the piano.

It appears many true beer drinkers just sit for the day in the Hofbrauhaus and talk to strangers. Many passing the ump pa musicians dance as they pass by them. A fun place to visit and sing along. There was a funny and amazing incident on the train going back to the hotel. There was a dog sitting next to the door of the train. The door would open and close and he would just sit motionless. At the 5th stop the door opened and the dog got off. I don’t know if it recognized the stop, could count, or recognized the announced station. But it made me wonder if the dog rode the train each day, had a ticket, and knew where to get off. If he did, he was smarter than I am.

I collapsed in bed after a hot shower.

July 25

I’m tired, very tired. My feeling on July 24 as we left the hotel in Parsdorf on Route 94 to Route 99 and the ring around Munich. We headed toward Nuremberg and Stuttgart but branched off at route 304 to Dachau. I had told Lorraine about visiting it with my grandson years ago and she wanted to see it. We stopped 3 times for directions to the concentration camp and no one seemed hesitant about directing us to the camp.

There is now a new access parking lot from when I had visited before and had to park in someone’s driveway. It was crowded with many tour buses. We were fortunate that we arrived about 9:30 AM because when we left about noon there were cars waiting to pull into our parking space. I could have sold the space for $50 and it only cost me $3 to get in.

The photos, living conditions, the barracks and crematorium startled Lorraine. My knees gave out (as usual) so I never did get to see the crematorium on either visit.

I dreaded going back through Munich to visit Garmisch so I found a route further west of Munich that went south and in true form was lost again. I saw the signs to the towns I wanted to go to but they did not have arrows to point in the direction of where I wanted to go. I plowed ahead and 3 times regretted it. Once I had to go over 12 miles to find a turn around to get back to the sign with no arrows. It had arrows from the other side of the sign toward which I was now heading. So, 1 1/2 hour travel time became 3 hours. But the ride was beautiful through rolling hills and farmland.

Oberammergau was jammed with tour busses and tourists so we decided to go to Garmish for a hotel. About 3 miles further in Ettal we found the “Ludwig du Bayer Ettal hotel across from the Ettal Kloster. There was a corner room available with a cross breeze (no A/C or fan) at 88 euro. It included free parking in the front of the hotel and a free breakfast.

he Kloster is huge, the size of a city block with a beautiful church, the inside gold laden.

The room looked out over meadows with mountains as background. We don’t see many mountains in Florida?

Being lost so many times exhausted me and after a visit to the Kloster and a heavy German dinner with a large stein of beer I showered and dropped into bed at 6:30. Goodnite everyone.

Ice seems to be a rare commodity in Europe. There are no ice machines in hotels and you must go to the bar to get a glass (not bucket) full. Usually it must be delivered to your room. Then there are about 10 hollow ice cubes.

In one hotel the staff spoke little English so I decided to communicate with the girl behind the bar. I wanted ice water so I pretended I was drinking and then shivered as if I were cold. I must have got my message across because she said; “Do you want ice water” in perfect English.

Bottled water is 2.50 euro for a small bottle and most times it is luke warm out of the refrigerated section of the store. I never thought I would choose a cold glass of water over a beer or a glass of wine, but now I yearn for it.

Evenings at vesper time the bells chimed from the church and I could hear singing through our open windows.

In the back of the hotel children were laughing and jumping on a trampoline and our balcony looked over the balconies of 3 homes so I would watch our neighbor clip dead blossoms off the red geraniums in her flower box. I watched the dog on the porch wag its tail at someone in the house and a father read his newspaper as he supervised his children playing in the meadow. Mom was rocking and knitting. Pure tranquility. A peaceful scene after having visited Dachau. The sights in Dachau live with you long after you leave the camp.

From another window I look down on an outdoor café where people were sitting at candle lit tables with umbrellas still unfolded.

Now what I (not Lorraine) consider a funny story. About 3 AM Lorraine shouts; “Paul there is something crawling on the headboard, I think it is a bat”. Naturally all of the windows are open to get the cross breeze. I told her to turn on the light but she is terror stricken and claims she doesn’t know where the light switch is located. I struggle up and turn on the bathroom light and see no signs of a bat. Now she claims it is under the bed, then behind the bed. She is sitting cross-legged in the middle of her bed afraid to move.

I told her she was batty.

She will deny she ever said it was a bat or crawling on the headboard but I was now wide-awake and I know what she said.

For the next few days I called her “batty” and got cold stares.

July 26

Drove to Garmisch and did not stay. We drove through town and found the B/W we had stayed at several years ago. It had no A/C and was fully booked for the following night. So, back to Ettal and charged cell phone at hotel and then on to Oberammergau to visit the wood carving shop we had visited on our last visit.

Today it is hard to find a woodcarver who starts with a log and a knife. Most woodcarvings in the last 30 years start with a machine and then are hand finished. In 1970 it was all by hand tools.

Met another surly waiter who ignored you and when you tried to speak to him would say “Ya” without looking at you and walk away. After trying to order a beer and 6 Ya’s” we got up and moved to the café next door and watched his surprise when he passed our now empty table. When my beer was served I looked back to see him looking and I raised my glass to taunt him. Some Germans are so independent and rude. They completely ignore you as if you were not there. Then there are others who are very helpful and courteous. Guess they might feel the same about Americans.

We returned to the hotel about 3 PM and took photos of the Kloster across from the hotel. We ate at the hotel outdoor café that has tables set up under large trees with shade and a cool breeze normally coming through.

Bought a shirt, belt (size “enormous”) and sent several wood carvings home by mail.

July 27

We left Ettal 8:30 AM expecting a long drive to Winterhur, Switzerland and wanting to arrive early as we had no reservation or knowledge regarding the B/W Banana city hotel. Winterhur is only 20 minutes from the Zurich airport and hotel had A/C so we wanted to get a room for 2 days so we could visit Schaffhausen and the Rheinfalls and Stein am Rhein. [Read in Frommer that this was a must see village.] Only two off route errors (I’m improving) and then onto route A12 to retrace route we took 10 days ago. We entered Winterhur and after a few inquiries arrived at this ultra modern glass structure shaped like a banana, and the B/W hotel was part of the building. We were shocked by the rate for an A/C room at 350 CHF. We could have a standard room for 230 a night but they were not available and did not have A/C.



At this late date in our trip I learned you could negotiate rates. I told her it was too expensive and what discounts could I get and she called the manager who lowered our rate to 250 CHF without question. The suite was immaculate and large with only one picture on 4 walls. It looked bare but I presume it also made the room look larger. There were wood floors, drapes and blinds and a view of the older mansion homes. It is considered a businessman conference hotel. The halls are extremely wide with couches, chairs and tables in the halls. The staff was efficient and spoke English. [I go from past tense to present tense in this narrative as I am working from notes I made and now it is a month later.]

The TV has CNN and CNBC and 3 English channels. The bathroom was large but the tub again requires a ladder to get in and out. [Sounds like I have a fetish for tubs]

We stole some rolls and cheese at breakfast in Ettal and we went into hysterics when for lunch we sat in our 350 CHF room eating hard rolls and cheese we took at breakfast. [One must economize somehow..]

We spent the full afternoon rearranging our suitcases and deciding what bags we would check and which we would carry on board. I didn’t want to trust my “cow bell” to check in luggage handlers and checkers so it stayed in my carry on backpack. I put my still camera in the check in suitcase but first removed the smart card with the “still photos” from it. Another long and tiring day.

July 28

Uneventful day as I spent the day in bed reading The Herald Tribune. I did not feel that great and although I would have liked to go to Schaffhausen and on to Stein Am Rhein, I did not want to face driving and finding my way back to the hotel. I felt a nice rest would be in order as preparation for going to the airport and returning the car and getting to the Hotel Hilton which is the closest hotel to the airport and has shuttle service every 20 minutes.

We did take a walk to the railroad station just to get some exercise. What amazed me at the railroad station were the hundreds of bicycles parked on the side of the road. Many seem to use the trains for getting to work each day.

July 29

Our morning was spent arranging contents of suitcases for those going into the bay of the plane. We had to bring the car back to Hertz, and then move our luggage to the hotel. We faced a light rain so prayed for a few minutes of dry weather to move the luggage to the car. Our prayers were answered.

We arrived at airport in Zurich and I again goofed up. There was no problem following the signs to Flughafen (airport) but when we entered the parking and return car rental area there were 5 choices. I did not see a sign to car rental return so kept going to garage 5. Garage 5 is a restricted garage and I did not know how to get back to start over.

I took the chance and left Lorraine with the car while I searched for the Hertz counter. I had to walk down 3 flights of stairs went to the right, then to the left and when I inquired found that I had to walk to the other end of the terminal. Not only that, but directions were up an elevator, down an escalator, cross over the terminal on a bridge and go up one floor on an elevator. I should have brought breadcrumbs to drop to find my way back to where Lorraine was waiting. I didn’t know if I would ever find her or the car again. All I knew is that I was in restricted parking. I could picture me asking security to find my car but not knowing where it was. I could picture Lorraine in panic.

After at least a 15 minute walk I found Hertz and they told me to leave the parking garage 5 and follow the signs to reenter the airport and go to Parking 3 and follow the signs to Hertz. I told her I didn’t know where I had parked and she looked at the ticket I had pulled out of machine as I entered the garage and told me to look for Garage 5 at the other end of the terminal. It is a long terminal. I found garage 5 and remembered I came down 3 flights of stairs so I must have parked the car on floor 3. Knowing the elevators in Europe, do I press floor 3 to get to floor 3? Yes, this time it worked. Got out and low and behold at the end of a long row of cars I see Lorraine frantically waving her arms. The police had arrived and told her to move the car as it was in a restricted zone but she pleaded innocent and told him I was on my way to find out where to return the car. He gave her the same directions Hertz had given me.

Remember the incident where we could not open the gate with the ticket from the machine when we had entered? It happened again! We got to the gate and it would not open. Cars were piling up behind me. Each time I entered the ticket a sign would appear 4.80 CHF. There is no slot to insert franks. I saw a security guard at the other end of the garage and started backing up causing those behind me to change lanes. When we had backed up about 500 feet the guard did not speak English but understood our predicament after much sign language. He conveyed I needed a credit card. He walked to the closest gate and entered my card. The machine gave me back my card and a ticket, which I am directed to use to get out of the gate. What does one do if one does not have a credit card?

Anyhow, the ticket worked and we were set free.

We exit the garage, go down a ramp exit and see signs to Garage 1; 2; 3; 4; 5. We enter parking lot 3 and see signs to rental car return but no signs to Hertz. After driving the perimeter of the garage we find Hertz. Since our gas tank was not topped off we were charged for 1/8 of a tank of gas. The car passed inspection showing only the scratches I had them note before we took the car back on July 4. [Be certain to have any damage noted before taking the car, and keep the report, otherwise you can be charged.]



I was given a receipt for the rental charge that agreed with what I had been quoted plus the 1/8 tank of gas.

The attendant provided us with a free luggage cart and directed us to hotel shuttle. Take the elevator to floor zero; then turn left and several meters down turn left and cross over the road, then take the elevator down to hotel limo area, and look for section one. (Got all that?)

Several inquiries later with a full cart of luggage we see the Hilton shuttle bus ready to pull out. We flagged him down, he loaded our luggage and in 10 minutes we are checking into the hotel for 235 euros for an A/C room in the basement.

By now I’m ready for a Manhattan so visit the bar in the lobby. After searching 4 drink mix guidebooks the waitress asks the manager how to make a manhattan. The result resembles a manhattan for 16 CHF (about $13.00). I dreaded looking at the menu for dinner as we had stole no rolls at breakfast.

However the uplift was the realization that tomorrow we would be on our way home and after I take out a mortgage to pay for the trip I’ll turn on my A/C house, sink into a tub that I can get out of, drink a manhaTtan and swear never to leave the USA again. (Until next year)

A caution; keep your passport safe and handy because you will be required to show it each time you pass through security and there are 26 (exaggeration) barriers and check points. I must have an impressive body or look mighty suspicious, as every time I went through a scan I was patted down and had to remove my shoes. My metal knee always sets off the alarm.

July 30

Returning to the Zurich airport on the 30th we arrived about 7:00 AM to be certain we had time to check our luggage. I felt that although we were early we could use the “presidents lounge” facility while we awaited the flight. The “check in” counter was not to open until 7:30 but at 7:30 although there were personnel arriving it was to be another hour before they put up ropes to guide you back and forth for 300’ that could have been 50‘ without the aisles they set up. There were only we and a man with his daughter but that did not matter. The book says this is how you must do it and by God don’t vary from what the book says. About 8:15 we stood in the Express line and awaited 10 minutes for the woman to set up her desk with the pencil on the left, the form on the right, all of the papers arranged a certain way, and then turn on the computer. Then try to get the computer to work. After another 15 minutes and several calls, she moved to another computer in another lane so we must rearrange the ropes again. The express line has not moved but the coach service line has been empty for 20 minutes.

Finally our luggage is checked in and we remain with just our backpacks ready to go to the Presidents lounge. Where is it? At the other end of the terminal. Lorraine says it is not worth it but we had not eaten and I was determined to take advantage of the service. So, bags in hand we start for the lounge.

Up elevators, down escalators, through two security gates with passport inspections and then up another elevator. Halleluiah, we get to the lounge and they won’t let us in. Continental Air does not have a contract with them. Fuming, I insist they call continental who admits their mistake and arranges for us to be entered. We had an orange juice and a roll and the hostess comes over and says that continental called and suggested we start back as they have closed off one of the passageways.

Shall I repeat the ups and downs in elevators and escalators and stairs? No, I couldn’t even remember how to get back to the departing gate. At one point we faced the closed passage way and that meant changing floors to (up and down again) and passing through security several more times showing our passports. Time was fleeting and we were getting closer to boarding time and Lorraine was in “panicville”; certain that we were going to miss the plane, and I was about to agree with her.

We reached the gate and boarding time had been delayed 1/2 hour. I collapsed in a chair and asked Lorraine if she wanted to go to the Presidents lounge to get a drink before we left. She did not think I was funny.

After boarding things got better except for our fear that we might not catch our connection in Newark, NJ by leaving late. I just hit the seat in the plane and was given a glass of champagne. (That helped) and at the same time handed a package of mixed nuts and a menu: To their credit a Continental employee came to our seat and apologized for sending us to the wrong lounge. I think she also tipped off the steward to give us a little special treatment. I told him to just leave a magnum of champagne so he didn’t have to keep filling my glass.

Also they saw me limp on the plane and arranged for a wheelchair to meet me in Newark and help us through customs.

The menu:

Foie gras terrine mit Garnelen und Meerettichsause Salat
New York strip steak
Ginger stangenpargeh
Kleine karotten mit butter
Kartoffel puree
Salat serviette mit thumion – tomaten vinagretti oder buttermilch dressing.

Don’t know what it was, but it was fantastic food.

I asked for cheese melon cantaloupe and had 5 cheeses, 2 cantaloupe slices and 2 melon slices plus a strawberry, and a cup of coffee. After 4 glasses of wine I had problems trying to sort the cheeses on my plate.

Lorraine sat quietly next to me wondering what I would do next after champagne, a bloody mary, and the wine. (I’ll have to try that combination more often, cause it killed the pain.)

Then came the dessert. We ate and drank for 2 hours.

Everybody bedded down for the long flight home. There were TV screens between the seats that showed where the plane was as we moved along over the Atlantic.

Food was fantastic, service fantastic, drinks fantastic; life was good and I was intoxicated. The ground speed indicated 892 MPH. Is that possible? We flew at 37,000 feet most of the way and landed in Newark 20 minutes early despite the late departure.

It was a little hassle getting through customs but we made our connection.

Lorraine’s brother–in-law and sister met us at the plane in Tampa and drove me home. I was exhausted and after opening up the house took a large glass of cold water, bid them good-bye, took a bath and dropped off to dreamland.

I write all of this a month later and stop to think what impressed me the most. The truck driver who was so kind to help us with our car problem stands out among the highlights.

I hope he realizes the impression he made on a grateful American.

Paul