Day 4 - Wednesday - Yesterday the day of the 'official' Stammtisch dinner was the longest day of the trip for us. I'm an early riser (even on vacation) and I didn't wind down from the night before until around 0200. So with about 3½ hours of sleep we are up and out of Urach just after dawn. We had paid our lodging bill the day before (95 DM each for 3 nights) and even tho the price was right and the farm was in a good location - the fact that we weren't comfortable with the ceiling heights left us less than excited about recommending it to others. It's overcast and rainy and with a final slow drive thru the village we are off and running towards the Füssen area.

We skirt Donaueschingen and pick up B31 for about 1½ hours to one of our favorite towns on the Bodensee - Meersburg. We walk the lower and upper sections of the Altstadt for about two hours visiting our favorite shops. The view from the garden of the Neues Schloß to the Swiss Alps across the lake can be breathtaking but on this dreary morning you can barely see an outline.

This is a great little spot for an overnight stay and one of our all time favorite places to stay here is the Gasthof zum Bären. The Bären is a splurge for us when we stay there but well worth it for one night.

We continue on B31 (not a good route with Stau's and slow trucks) - pick up B12 thru Isny and south of Kempten we switch to B310 on into Füssen - arriving at our new farm in Schwangau/Horn around 1330. The Beim Landhannes Bauernhof is located within eyeshot and an easy walk to Neuschwanstein castle.

This is the second time Larry has stayed at the Landhannes and it is a definite winner. We both have double rooms with full bath and balconies for two days (45 DM per night).

Altho this is a working farm it is well suited and maintained for tourists visiting this beautiful area. No hesitation at all about recommending this farm to couples or families planning to spend some time around Ludwig's castles.

A phone booth (phonecard only) is located a short walk away on the Romantic Road (B17 - Füssener Straße) which runs in front of the farm. The weather here this afternoon is sunny and beautiful so I walk over to make my daily call home. The girls are still recovering from having had to bury our German Schnauzer a few days ago but all is well in Texas even tho it's still in the 90's and hasn't rained in 80+ days. As I am walking back down the street filming the farm - I hear a car squeal to a halt behind me and someone calls out - "Are you Ben - BavariaBen?". I turn around and immediately recognize Matt (VavPhilly) and his bride to be Chris. Matt had written to me that he would be in the area and we should keep an eye out for each other.

He apparently spotted me by my blue traveling cap as he was driving back towards Suzeanne's B&B in Füssen. From what I could gather Matt had proposed to Chris that morning on the Marienbrücke overlooking Neuschwanstein. What a great day for the history of their family. They were very enthusiastic about their trip so far and I was really enjoying sharing it with them. When I told them about the days in Urach he knew everyone of the Stammtisch members that I told him about. Matt stopped by Ben's Bauernhof frequently when planning his trip so he knew all about our plans. They were flying out of Munich for Amsterdam the next day so Matt pulled out his map and we discussed the best possible routes. This chance meeting makes the highlight reel of my trip and I still smile when I think about it.

After a short break we cruised into Füssen to have a short visit with Suzeanne. She was tied up with some business so I left a note for Matt and Chris and we went looking for a good Schnitzel dinner. After looking at a few places in Hohenschwangau and cruising by another old favorite Pension (the Weiher) - we settled on the Zur Post at Münchener Straße in Schwangau.

Excellent restaurant and a great meal.

Day 5 - Thursday - We awake to an overcast rainy day. Breakfast is an excellent buffet in a beautiful little Frühstück Zimmer. Our plan for the day was to include a stop at the Marienbrücke, the Tegelberg and a drive into Austria for the Sommerrodelbahn at Biberwier. Considering the weather situation we opt to drive around in the rain scouting for farms in the area. Around Schwangau - Horn - and Brunnen farms are plentyful. We had hoped to get pictures but the rain kills that. We drive thru Füssen trying to get a look at the new Ludwig Musical Theater and take a tour of the lakes and up to Seeg. I love this area but this is a depressingly damp day. We find a spot to park and walk the Füßganger zone of Füssen in the mist. I like shopping at Woolworth's just down from the Hotel Sonne where this trip I find Ritter Sport bars for 1.20DM. After finding a new immersion heater coil for my early morning coffees and a new Falk road atlas for Larry we head back towards Schwangau. After a rainy drive by Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein we head back to the barn for a break.

We decide to have dinner at the Gutshof zum Schluxen near Reutte. We knew this place as the Schluxenhof farm prior to 1994 and it had good bargain rates. After 95 and all the renovations were complete it took on the more stately title of Gutshof zum Schluxen. Prices also took a leap and I can't afford to stay there now but the place could survive on Rick Steve's tour groups alone. The Schluxen is located in the middle of a meadow at Unterpinswang 24.

As we pull into the sapling-lined parking area we find that we have parked directly in front of the tree donated by Rick Steves. After Larry pulls out his Swiss Army knife and carves his initials into the biggest branch we move in and have a seat in one of their very nice dining rooms. Tonight's meal - Tiroler Speckknödelsuppe and Tiroler Gröstl (Bratkartoffeln mit Zwiebel und Speck mit Spiegelei) - Adam Bräu Hell bier. The Gröstl was served in a piping hot skillet in a portion that was more than I could handle. The history of this old farm includes visits from the fairytale king himself - King Ludwig II. They can now add Ben and PStuyvsant to the list of notable visitors. :-)